THE IRREPLACEABLE LEGACY OF DRIES VAN NOTEN

words by SARAH KENNELLY
editor MAREK BARTEK

Dries Van Noten will be stepping down from his eponymous label after 38 years, plunging the fashion community awash with sadness for his departure. He leaves behind an enduring legacy of authenticity that will live far beyond his departure. Although his ingenious creations will be sorely missed, Van Noten can finally welcome a well-deserved rest from a life dedicated in its entirety to the art of fashion. In a farewell letter, he said: “Now, I want to shift all my focus to all the things I never had time for.”

Working hand in hand with his long-time partner, Patrick Vangheluwe, the designer has never taken more than two weeks off since launching the brand. Despite leading one of the most famous fashion labels in the world, they favour an understated life, working on each collection from the comfort of their home in Antwerp. Their idyllic white manor sits on acres of green fields filled with thousands of vibrant flowers and small vegetable patches that have become a passion project for Van Noten. Enjoying the simple pleasures of life, he spends his free time harvesting gardens while his Airedale Terrier, Harry, runs circles around him. But he has always lamented the personal sacrifices he was forced to make in order to keep the label’s artistic vision alive. Never able to take a single season off, the designer has chosen to depart from the company to give way to a new era: “I feel it’s time to leave room for a new generation of talents to bring their vision to the brand.” Now, he can finally enjoy a life that won’t be dictated by the tight schedules of runway shows. 

Born in Antwerp in 1958, he is the third generation of tailors in his family. He became utterly obsessed with the craft, choosing to study fashion design at Antwerp’s Royal Academy. It wasn’t long before the wonder of his raw talent was noticed. In the first year, he was christened to be one of the famous “Antwerp Six,” a group of radical and eccentric fashion designers putting Belgium’s creative scene on the map. 

Choosing to stay in his hometown, Van Noten came into his own, creating a distinct style that would act as a common thread throughout his future collections. He was hopelessly out of touch with pop culture but drew inspiration from classical music, crafting garments that embodied the traditional structure of impeccably tailored suits and gowns whilst never seeming outdated. His intricate designs mastered the art of pushing the envelope without ever seeming over the top. Rebelling against the shock factor prevalent in punk rock fashion shows of the time, he decided to stand out by perfecting the art of silhouettes and patterns. 

And after showing his first womenswear collection for Spring/Summer 1994, he became an overnight success in the weary eyes of critics who grew tiresome of seeing the same failed attempts at Avant Garde. 

For Van Noten, fashion was a tool to discuss the greatest challenges facing humanity from gender norms to climate change. His menswear collections used maximalist floral designs to challenge norms of masculinity. As early as 2000, the designer featured pleated skirts and figure-hugging jersey dresses that were dubbed revolutionary for the collection’s gender-bending flair. And sustainability has always been at the heart of the brand, using ethical production practices and eco-friendly fabrics before it became the “fashionable” thing to do. 

Van Noten was never one for chasing trends, forging a path for his own designs through a sense of creativity that was totally unique to his brand. He valued the high-art of his trade, declining to even call it “fashion” as that symbolises something that is shallow and transient. And he was loyal to this belief in every aspect of the brand, garnering admiration for his refreshing authenticity in an industry that has become increasingly commercial. While most brands rely on celebrity endorsements, he rejected this in favour of dressing the “real woman.”

This philosophy is sewn into the fabric of each garment, designed to be worn rather than contorting the body into uncomfortable shapes. Van Noten’s clothes are rooted in utility, often featuring pockets and loose waists that never take away from the impeccable tailoring he is famous for. By designing in the pursuit of comfort, he has empowered women to feel confident in their style without being constricted by suffocating silhouettes. And he proved how glamorous comfort could be, using buttery silks and chiffon to elevate the idea of everyday wear. 

When we reflect on Dries Van Noten’s legacy, it’s impossible not to be drawn back to his Spring/Summer collection in 2005. The runway was transformed into a dinner table where 500 guests were seated watching the models saunter down in ornate silk tea dresses. It was a testament to Van Noten’s artistry which values the runway as a stage for theatrical performance, transporting audiences to the world his designs live within. It was a critical success in the fashion industry, displaying Van Noten’s ingeniousness. And each show thereafter, sought to top the last, pushing the envelope of what’s considered high-fashion without ever losing a touch of elegance. 

For his latest runway, attendees could find a lock of hair hidden in their invitations, signifying the powerful woman who dares to cut her own hair. It is moments like these that Van Noten will be remembered for, paying homage to the inner strength of the people we know and love rather than untouchable icons. 

In a heartfelt Instagram post, Van Noten reflects upon his career: “As a young guy from Antwerp, my dream was to have a voice in fashion. Through a journey that brought me to London, Paris and beyond, and with the help of countless supportive people, that dream came true.”

Van Noten’s departure will be a great loss to the fashion community as a designer who fought to build a better fashion industry. At a time when high-fashion brands are being morphed into machines for profit and stifling creativity, the Belgian icon offered a refreshing alternative – authenticity. 

The designer will bid farewell to his legendary brand at the final Dries Van Noten show in Paris this June. There’s no doubt this collection will embody the originality of his previous designs, making this goodbye all too bittersweet for his passionate followers. Now this begs the question, who is worthy to fill the shoes of Belgium’s beloved fashion icon?

cover image GQ by Kirsty Sparrow