words by MAREK BARTEK

MSGM

There’s no doubt Massimo Giorgetti loves a good location for a show. Bars, parks, entryways of modernist buildings, art galleries,… you name it. This season was no exception. MSGM’s latest runway show took us all underground, more specifically to the Porta Venezia subway station. Massimo’s way to point out meaningful issues with the sense of lightness and genuineness combined really well with his love for all things Milan. 

all images MSGM via vogue.com

Honoring the 60th anniversary of Milan’s subway, MSGM partnered up with Franco Albini Foundation to reference his work in the collection. Franco Albini, who was one of the most elegant designers at the time, created the subway’s typography and tubular curved handrails. And it is the shape of the curved handrail that found its way into the collection. We could see it in the form of a brooch pinned to the hoodie, embroidered in red on the front of a black coat of the opening look or even carried around by one of the models as some sort of bag-like accessory. 

Models rushed down the runway imitating the busy lifestyle seen in subways everyday — the meaningful issue Massimo was trying to address. As he himself admits the passage of time and its volatility make him struggle to feel excitement. This all manifested in the collection, which looked quite grown up, especially in terms of tailoring and silhouettes. And then, there’s Giorgetti’s inner child which shines through in many other aspects. Whether it’s sequins, briefs, feathers and fur collars, strong graphic prints (a result of collaboration with Google), padded looks, fluffy bedroom slippers or even a reminder that ballet core isn’t over just yet, in the form of white socks and flat ballerinas. Giorgetti sparks a hope that the excitement to enjoy life is still there and we should all do it sometimes. 

RALPH LAUREN

Instead of a full runway show, Ralph Lauren organized this year a rather informal presentation, which took place at the Ralph Lauren Palazzo. Carrying some clear equestrian motifs, the collection itself still remained very Ralph Lauren — elegant with the hints of playfulness. 

Generally divided into three categories, the collection offered a dressed up daywear for, a collection for warmer weather and evening wear. The daywear was, as typical for Fall/Winter, full of darker shades. Dark red, green, and blue took a central stage, as Ralph gave us a perfectly tailored suit made in each of these colors. Joining the tie trend, Ralph doesn’t use it as a tie per-se. It is approached rather as an accessory in the play of dress up.  We can see the variety of ties but also scarves throughout the whole collection. The equestrian lifestyle comes into life in the form of a fringe leather jacket in dark brown, but also in the smart mixing of materials like leather and shearling on outerwear. 

With the global mindset, Ralph Lauren approached the Fall/Winter with the idea that not everywhere is dark and bleak. The second part of the collection presents a perfect option for those trying to escape the coldness. Shades of beige, pink, yellow, green and blue, and materials like blends of linen are truly making you want to pack your bags and go somewhere warm. 

The evening wear is dark, a combination of mostly black and white. That being said, even here we can see the genius mind of Ralph Lauren. Setting himself apart, the double breasted suit jackets are closed on the lower button. This “Ralph Lauren suit” evokes the feel of old Hollywood and glamor. The classic suits and ties slowly evolve into more dressed down variations, including a sweater with embroidery on the front, leather jacket with a lot of details like purposefully visible pockets and belt, all the way to the fringe jacket, this time in black. 

DOLCE & GABBANA

As described by Domenico Dolce, the latest Dolce & Gabbana show was about “the beauty of the handmade and the supreme quality that comes from our almost obsessive knowledge of the rules of tailoring.” 

There is not denying that the dynamic duo mastered the artistry of tailoring. Ever since they opened their business in the mid 80’s, the beauty of handmade has been a part of the brand’s identity. And this show celebrates the sartorial expertise of Dolce & Gabbana. Grounded in traditional Italian tailoring, it also comes with an elegant twist to attract the younger generation. It’s not only the perfect proportions and construction, which give you posture and presence but also the constant mediation on the idea of masculinity. 

all images DOLCE & GABBANA via vogue.com

The collection was infused in the sense of romance and old-school charm. The tailoring was precise, yet sensual. Out of 62 looks most of them were suits and most of them were black. Among the exceptions were three white suits, a coat in camel, another in gray and a couple of absolutely eye-catching furs made out of fluffy shearling. Typical poplin shirts were replaced with cream satin blouses, often with bows or thin scarf collars. The refined selection of spencer jackets, tuxedos and  sleeveless tight-coats, combined with organza flowers on the flat shoes added into the play of sensual masculine.  

FENDI

When asked about the inspiration behind the collection, Silvia Venturini Fendi simply answered there were none. As she believes, the inspiration is more of a continuous flow from one collection to another, constantly revisiting and reviewing the “great classics.” Founded over 100 years ago by her family, Silvia’s work comes from appreciation of the past mixed with seeing what today can offer. 

all images FENDI via vogue.com

Though she didn’t say anything too specific, Venturini Fendi admitted Anne, Princess Royal, has been a rather inspiring figure. As a woman designing menswear, Silvia doesn’t like to be pinned down by restrictions, which is also a telling sign of increasing female influences and blurring the lines of the gender in menswear collections. 

Possibly influenced by the British countryside, we can see plenty of tartans, twin sets, lodens, roomy bermudas pleated as kilts, and a fisherman coat. All that got a bit Fendified into functional and luxurious versions with a futuristic, experimental edge. Except traditional loden, Silvia offered us a needle-punched version of it, alongside with a coat made out of shredded washed denim and fringed mohair, which gave it a fur look. The selection of outerwear went from waxed jacket and greatcoat to peacoats with leather details. All that accompanied by side-pleated trousers and leather Wellingtons with hiking socks. 

JORDANLUCA

Designer duo of British-born Jordan Bowen and Italian Luca Marchetto invited us for a “weird birthday party.” The show was set in the industrial concrete space, the runway was lined with plastic seating and silver balloons, underlining the show’s theme. 

The opening was dedicated to traditional Italian tailoring. Overcoat, slim-fitting suits with a tie and leather bag carried together with the umbrella. As the show progresses, we are offered a more deconstructed approach to tailoring, in the form of a blazer with a sculptural front. The exotic light and dark grey pattern came to life in the long coat with padded shoulders, a blazer and skirt set and is then transformed to the darker shades of brown and applied on blazers and jackets. The repertoire of dresses played on sensuality. Yellowey-gold satin or translucent white were perfect standout pieces, combined with lower heel closed toe sandals. 

all images JORDANLUCA via fashionnetwork.com

Though nothing about Jordanluca is casual, among the less formal looking, we could see prolonged knits with hoodies, denim with a train, knitted skirts or deconstructed apron with the slit on the front. Jordanluca took its own direction with polka dots and gave us either a more elegant different shade of brown polka or directly cut them out from the garments. The denim was often worn lower, revealing a fabric garter belt underneath. The outwear offered everything from an off-white shearling jacket and denim to a latex coat. 

The plenty of accessories perfectly followed the motifs of the collection. Leather bags in black and red were matched with leather looks of the same color, the giant metal needle from the pouch bag was applied in the smaller version on the cuffs of the blazer. All that accompanied by tight headwear pieces in different materials pulled the looks together into one cohesive story. 

NEIL BARRETT

Neil Barrett’s show is a point of tension between heritage and modernity. It’s about a character that respects the tradition, yet has an urge to innovate. This collision of opposites came together in the collection that through rethought cut, fabrics and subtle details enables these two worlds to coexist in the perfect harmony. 

all images NEIL BARRETT via vogue.com

The collection was young-spirited, as models walked down the narrow runway to the electronic music. A traditional crombie-style coat came with a twist of diagonal pockets on the hips. Padded coats, blousons and overcoats all recreated in Techno tweed, the successor of Harris tweed. 

The absolute showstopper was the long brown padded duffle coat. The walrus-tusk fastenings attached with extra pads, made this look truly stand out while perfectly communicating the vision for this collection. 

Wool pants secured at the bottom with velcro or poppers, rethought utility gloves, elbow patches moved to the forearms, knits made of a mix of traditional patterns. All these are a manifestation of Neil Barrett’s 21st century masculine wardrobe.

FEDERICO CINA

Federico Cina’s ‘Colors of Nothing’ collection drew inspiration from the brutalist architecture, the uselessness of decoration, and capturing the moment when everything changes. Giving us not only the collection but a proper show, the model in the opening look carries an empty metal cubicle construction, which is then transformed into a solid piece and later on exchanged for two models, one standing on another’s shoulders. 

The collection is hyper focused on the essence of form. Straight and precise lines, rigor silhouettes and visible cuts combine with the shades of neutral black, off-white and grey, with a pop of brown, pastel turquoise and warm baby pink. 

all images FEDERICO CINA via fashionnetwork.com

The tailoring is deconstructed and asymmetrical. Following the storytelling of change and rebirth, blazers are closed with a metallic brooch instead of buttons, collars moved alongside the circumference of the neckline and visible folds on dresses and tops. Federico plays with the layering. Shorts come in sets — a skin tight paired with a loose-fitting version on top of it. On the other hand, trousers are revived with the illusion of layered double opening. 

The abundance of sets comes in different forms. Top with skirt, suit, wool trousers mixed with either see through top or a same material long coat with the hoodie — all different, yet absolutely cohesive. 

Though Cina’s focus lies in the form, throughout the show, we are introduced to two patterns; a great addition to the monochrome looks. Following the scheme of grey and off-white with brown accents, the abstract pattern is applied on long coats, peacoat and high collar vests. The black, grey and cold blue stripe pattern, on the other hand, appears on cardigan combined with denim but is also used for a full-on fluffy look.

The inspiration in the transformation of tradition is finally manifested into the object as Cina introduces his soft but sculptural Tortellino bag. Thin belts in the same shape of the blazer closings,  pointy closed toe sandals and flat boots, both combined with a pair of high socks are all final touches that made this collection a work of art. 

MARSÈLL

After eight months of tireless work between Marsèll and design studio Lotto Studio, the brand’s first ever flagship store opened. The project brief was to conceive of an absolute space, a blend of the modular environments seen in the rigorous architecture of Marcel Breuer and the meditative atmospheres created by Carlo Scarpa. Open, modern and solemn, the 400 square meter, two floor space presents a perfect translation of what Marsèll is all about. 

The Italian craft footwear and accessories brand fosters a deep connection to art and culture, and the flagship store is a perfect example of it. The ground floor serves as a shop where both men’s and women’s collections can be found, but it also has a gallery area for presenting collaborations and site-specific art projects. Basement has a dual function too — to display the Marsèll Gomme family and to host meetings, exhibitions and conferences.