LOEWE presents the new collection for Fall & Winter 2021
All cut up: the LOEWE Fall Winter 2021 men's runway collection presents a collage of dream-like fictional characters—cutting and rearranging becomes an act of editing and inventing.
Creative director Jonathan Anderson keeps the expression dry and the spirit light, with clean silhouettes and precise cuts. Tribute is paid to the work of artist Joe Brainard through prints and jacquards that run over garments and accessories, but it is also celebrated as a method and mindset: collage. T-shirts and jumpers are multiplied into triplets; sheets with artworks are printed bluntly onto the front and lapels of a blazer.
A detour amongst the tropes, the clichés even, of iconic subcultures unfolds. Different elements are sliced, dissected, distorted, dried up and then assembled again in subversive disorder: the stripy jumpers of grunge, the humongous trousers and wallabees of rave, the bondage stovepipes and mohair knits of punk, the shaggy shearling of hippies, the black of beatniks and the duffel coats of mods. The classicism of the trenchcoat and plain utilitarianism of the peacoat are also subverted. The angularity and bright colors of new wave polish everything off with a bang.
Ajour jumpers. Coats that ow and move. Cardigans with matching culottes. Triple tops. Leather bondage trousers. Collage prints. Extra baggy trousers. A sense of thoughtful accumulation: each garment is a collage, therefore the look becomes a collage of collages.
Key footwear styles include Chelsea boots, suede boots and wallabees. Highlight bags featuring Joe Brainard’s work include a round bumbag and roll top backpack in printed nylon, and the multifaceted Puzzle bag and bumbag in classic calf with leather marquetry—each emblazoned with the artist’s iconic Pansies. Double handle totes appear in Anagram jacquard and calf, as well as classic calf and canvas combinations.
