To create an illusion. Here is Glenn Martens’ ambition for the Spring/ Summer 2023 collection of Y/Project, in which he designs, as every season, silhouettes that intrigue and reinvent themselves constantly.

This game between the real and the fake is eloquent in trompe-l’oeil pieces. Such as a second collaboration with the Jean Paul Gaultier brand for a ready-to-wear line, where emblematic Y/Project models are projected on the outfits. This illusion continues in the collection with elements such as the multiple collars and belts, that have been scanned and printed on the silhouettes, or some sweatshirts and t-shirts whose bottom give the effect of high-waisted jeans.

This amusement around denim continues. We can find it in trompe-l’oeil on a silk scarf. Pieces of denim are assembled like knitting. The jacqueron, the leather rectangle that covers the right rear of the pants, becomes a theme. It might be embroidered in XXL version on a T-shirt or reinterpreted in metal for a pair of earrings.

The elegance of Y/Project silhouettes is always mysterious. Dresses and blazers are cut with detachable panels. Thanks to transparent nylon straps, tank tops look like they’re floating. A perfect fit with the Evergreen line, launched in 2020, a range of eco-responsible pieces that is enriched each season with new models.

The Y/Project look is inseparable from a certain irony: tops covered with rude baby silhouettes, golden earrings in the shape of a giving-finger hand, transparent openwork plastic rain boots, made in collaboration with Melissa. Pink, a color considered innocent, covers bags inserted with wires, which can be twisted. A very contemporary malice.