Creative directors Benjamin A. Huseby and Serhat Işık are interested in juxtaposition and friction, deliberately confronting concepts they themselves are uncomfortable with. Words like classic, daytime glamour and essential wardrobe were never an obvious place for them to start. But as is often their method in their continuing almost anthropological study of how we dress and its codes, they looked to Milan’s original street fashion icon: the sciura.

The archetype of a sciura’s wardrobe that is both elegant and staid is decoded and its essence recoded into the Fall-Winter 2023 collection. Reworking tropes from Trussardi’s archive through a prism as voyeurs into Milanese society, Huseby and Işık present an essential wardrobe for the ladies (and gentlemen)–of any generation– who lunch and who frequent the streets around Palazzo Trussardi alla Scala.

Photographed and presented in the newly reopened Palazzo Trussardi, it completes a circle that began a year ago with the creative directors’ debut collection shown in the flagship’s excavated, unfinished space.

The collection features archival silhouettes and codes reworked in a modern, sharper key. Duchesse satin and nylon has a liquid leather look and feel, a nod to the house’s founding material. The colour palette is how Trussardi’s historic tones are imagined: marron, blueberry, ecru and maroon. Dramatic pieces are designed as if they were to attend a party in a salon or be illuminated under the opening night lights of Teatro alla Scala.

Echoing the faded tapestries often found in gilded palazzos, a traditional Gobelin jacquard is inspired by historical Italian depictions of greyhounds, and is found on voluminous neck jackets, oversized totes and a blanket skirt.

Coats are double-breasted, long in duchesse satin, quilted with shawl collar. Coats made from Casentino wool, fabric that dates back to the 14th century, are modernized with exaggerated hour-glass silhouettes and oversized collars. Duvet coats in floor length coated nylon have a leather-like shine. A hazelnut-coloured faux fur –a sciura’s ultimate fur coat– is shown on a male model. Hip-length flared shapes are cut with billowing sleeves.

Matelassé trousers and blanket skirts are easy, effortless garments, paired with versatile knitwear and delicate mohair sweaters.

Tailoring has long proportions in felted wool double-breasted jackets, vests, and pants, and in a new men’s shirt, tie and trouser coordinated combination.

Cocktail dresses are constructed from a slip shape with bias cuts and draped necklines. One is cut from micropatterned floral lace, another in glossy blueberry has a halter neck and flounced hem.

A touch of sciura glamour is introduced in satin blouses with scarf details, and opera-length leather gloves adorned with crystal appliqué. Leather skirts and nylon coated coats have sharp cuts, high necks or long lengths.

Accessories include slouchy, oversized hobo totes in soft leather; and smaller, wave-shaped shoulder bags in shiny leather with a crocodile print. Pumps feature delicate buckled straps over a foot’s décolleté and reveal the house’s ouroboros greyhound emblem at the back of the heel.