SYNESTHETIC VISIONS BY COLLIDE
Laura Mendera & Oumayma El Boumeshouli
Words by Maria Pigatto
COLLIDE is raising antennas – we are opening our eyes to decoding the contemporary narration and selecting the most ingenious, cutting-edge protagonists in the Industry. Believing that all human nuances must be exalted, we aim to move the conversation forward.
During the last couple of decades humanity has finally started working on the perception of its identity and related conception of agency. While for centuries humans have pictured themselves as characterized by unidirectionality and the impossibility of being contaminated by the animal kingdom and the technologic one, in the present moment the knowledge of themselves is mutating. A powerful process of hybridization destined to evolve in the future is currently rising and contributing to the emersion of a new ethos and aesthetics: biomorphic, organic shapes and sensorial textures on one side, technologically interactive garments and the entrance inside the cyber fashion realm on the other, are challenging the artistic landscape. For this contribution a selection of artists, designers and products has been made in accordance to the cultural directions mentioned.
Carina Shoshtary, Munich-based artist and jewel-maker of German and Iranian ancestry, defines herself and her practice as emotional and evocative. Her study revolves around gathering together forgotten and abandoned materials present in the surrounding habitat: discarded old bobbin laces and plastic nets of shower sponges are employed in the construction of greatly crafted one-of-a-kind pieces. Each of the latter is also consecrated to a new life, representing the radical intention of investigating, while mimicking, the complexity of nature: organic and wearable silhouettes resembling to submarine creatures populate the poetics behind the Hunter Project collection.
Korean artist and photographer Cho Gi Seok branches out a different, yet equally evolved, narration. His work Coexistence, standing in opposition to the western dualistic perspective, indicates how the holistic approach embracing the animal, plant and human realms is currently being elaborated by the post-anthropocentric era we are encompassing. His otherworldly portraits distinguished by their lively colors and frequent motifs of bodies, orchids and butterflies reveal a delicate, yet radical atmosphere that is testament to a new ethos currently on the rise.
Japanese fashion designer Noir kei ninomiya, known for being Rei Kawakubo’s protégé, approached the fashion system in 2012 proposing intricate shapes that evoke a powerful inclination for experimentation. The desire to exceed the limits of the contemporary use of techniques, materials and craftsmanship led him to present recently his Fall/Winter 2022 collection, which focuses on the organic side of our planet. Neon colors glowing in the dark, the assemblage of strings with dots at the top, spiky shapes adorning armored tops as a second skin remember us of the typical life-survival techniques used by the other living beings sharing with us the same space.
Trained as an architect and later mutated as creative technologist, Behnaz Farahi explores the potential of interactive environments and their relationship to the human body. Iridescence, one of the Iranian-American designer’s most remarkable pieces, aims to answer the question of what would happen if our clothing could perceive the emotions of those around us. The item is a 3D-printed emotive collar inspired by the Anna’s hummingbird; through the latest improvements in AI facial expression tracking technology it is able to grasp and identify external sensorial information such as the facial expression of the interlocutor, so that people reporting problems in decoding the latter are supported.
Tribute Brand a Croatian contactless and cyber fashion brand, which emerged lately during the rose of pandemic estrictions carried on the conversation about the blending of identity, even in terms of gender and size. It is precisely the employment of garments digitally finished that enable the consumers to perceive themselves differently, radically closer to a dimension that, until some months ago, they could just admire from afar. Moreover, through the natural inclusivity brought by digital fashion, gender and size issues are dissolving in favor of a more fluid modality of self-representation.
Noir kei ninomiya https://www.instagram.com/noirkeininomiya/ @noirkeininomiya