For its Fall/Winter 2023 collection, De Pino chose to extend the idea of being a star, drawing its inspiration from the image of a very elegant woman wearing long gloves and a pencil skirt.

It’s an ultra-sophisticated universe handled with an assumed clumsiness. The materials are luxurious, tweed and wool jerseys, silk mousselines, but the pieces have an unfinished look, with clean edges. There are oversized labels that remind one of those found on old couture dresses. On a jacket, there is the illusion of a well-marked shoulder pad when it is simply a piece of fabric. Crochet pieces made from torn muslin ribbons give the impression of evening dresses embroidered with feathers.

This collection is all about pretending, playing at being that otherworldly woman.There are also trompe l’oeil, overlays that are actually a single piece: a mini skirt made of fabric scraps over jeans, a mini bra with rhinestones over a sweater.

De Pino comes from this desire to have fun with clothes, to mix opposing universes in order to create a contemporary look that ignores the idea of gendered clothes. Upcycling remains a strong principle of the brand, with trousers made from patchworks of vintage jeans, vintage t-shirts made in Paris and then reworked, and a majority of fabrics and leathers from dead stock.