SOLID HOMME Fall-Winter ’23, the reimagination of vintage prep for the new generation. Central to this story is the reprogramming of tradition and nostalgia into fresh codes, the simultaneous privileging of both old and new. Remixing the brand’s Bauhausian base with graphics inspired by Spanish Basque artist Eduardo Chillida, the FW23 collection imbues functionality with freeform detailing against a palette reminiscent of winter landscapes.  

Tops extend to mid-length in cardigans and outerwear, while baggy pants are elevated through curva- ture of the silhouette. Hallmarks of the preppy wardrobe such as letterman jackets, boat shoes, and  varsity stripes feature heavily across the collection. Oversized bags, strapped and hung to the back of ear-apped caps, reinterpret the classic Y-back suspender. High collars are exaggerated to cover  models’ faces, while beanies are tucked at the back or doubly layered for extra shaping, some punctu- ated by Chillida-inspired motifs— geometric puzzle pieces that also appear in the form of collegiate  lettering, oversized zipper pendants, and bold earrings. Vintage fabrics— bicolour and washed cordu- roy, moleskin, velvet, Casentino wool, chenille, tweed, and homespun—create a nuanced textural  ensemble, matched by accessories cut from the same fabric. Balancing the collection between earthy and icy are the FW23 key colours of Powder Blue, Lemon Grass, Lime Light, Porcelain, and Rust Brown.  

Steeped in darkness, the 19th century ballroom of Élysée-Montmartre becomes an exercise in sculp- tural lighting– a runway dened solely by projected light. With unexpected gaps and appendages, the  walkway rejects any traditional linearity, for a continuous dialogue between presence and absence. As the models move through the pathway, the lighting builds up block by block to icy fresh future sounds, delivering an attitude at once powerful and free.