SCHIAPARELLI’S COUTURE IS A SURREALISTIC REMINDER TO STAY CREATIVE
words by MAREK BARTEK
After last collection, which was definitely one of the most talked about, Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry decided to tackle a different approach this time.
“My instinct here was to build the collection in a different way, for a collection that adventures, explores, and dares. One that feels more organic, more sensual, more impromptu.”Daniel Roseberry
Coming back to the Maison’s long history of involvement with artists, Roseberry dives deep into the process of creativity and emerges a reborn couturier. Taking each of the typically basic items of woman’s wardrobe and reimagining them, Daniel manages to create a collection that feels surreal and extravagant, yet fresh and desirably wearable.
This season, Roseberry’s genius entered a territory of sculptural draping, asymmetrical silhouettes and by collaborating with masters of their crafts, he blends the borders between clothes, jewellery, embroidery and collages of fabrics.
He doesn’t play by the book. Going to the very root of his source of inspiration and then visualising it, we are invited to see exactly who his muses are. Whether it is a broken-mirror stretch cardigan and skirt inspired by sculptor Jack Whitten, deep blue pebble-like bead and powder covering different surfaces paying tribute to Yves Klein and Miró, or even painterly brushwork on an oversized white laminated puffer coming from the walls of Lucian Freud’s London studio home.
In days when when digitalisation shapes our lives faster than ever, when anything and anyone can blow up at any time, Schiaparelli invites us to slow down. By creating a-piece-of-art collection, so extremely relatable, so undoubtably human, we are reminded that creating is as primitive as any instinct we have.