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19 March

SAMSØE SAMSØE Spring & Summer 2020 Mid-Century's Modern collection

 

Building further on pre-Spring’s humancentric approach to fashion, where clean lines, high quality materials and the consideration of function converge, Spring/Summer 2020 sends a nostalgic nod to the Danish Modern design movement, characterised by these same guiding principles.

As relevant today as ever, the soft modernism of Scandinavia plays out on a collection where cuts become looser for the warmer months, and elements of sportwear and workwear and their way into the everyday wardrobe. Looking to the era that gave us many of our modern wardrobe staples, the collection is lled with versatile pieces that remain sartorial building blocks: structured transitional jackets cut for aboxy  from tweedy fabrics or tactile velvet areminimally detailed with practical pockets; new renditions of the ubiquitous polo shirt are imbued with nostalgic details and cut for a closet from crisp blends; and oversized sweaters in thick ribbed knits with half-zip fastenings underpin the importance of well made clothing.

Just like the design movement, new materials shape the collection’s styles: Samsøe Samsøe’s longstanding tradition of crafting garments from natural fabrics results in pieces that are celebrated as much for their quality as for their simple yet modern shapes. A trench coat for her is cut from structured linen blend and pared back to its purest form with gently rounded shoulders and raglan sleeves. Fusing workwear with streetwear, classic menswear is given utilitarian edge on cotton twill trousers, cut in a new, relaxed shape. Sustainable fabrics and blends also celebrate the shapes of the classics: the bowling shirt has an updated t so it feels in nitelymore modern, cut from soft tencel that falls ina liquid-like drape. Palazzo-style pants designedwith the working woman in mind are crafted inheavy crepe with a lustrous nish. And softlytailored shirts and blouses juxtapose sleek lines with organic shapes, using these new and natural blends to reimagine traditional styles.

Purposely devoid of pattern, the collection’s singular standout is a lively bird print found in our archives and inspired by furniture designer Kay Bojesen’s iconic wooden decorations, printed on an ankle-grazing silk dress with shirred cuts. Stripes move away from varsity sensibilities to take on a more nostalgic feel, and an abundance of heritage checks reference the upholstery fabrics of the mid-century movement. Touched with the era’s signature coloursand rooted in nature, monk’s robe, midnight blue and desert sand are enlivened with misty rose and seaweed green.

Blurring the lines between how pieces are worn, shirts become jackets, knits become teesand trousers and shorts resemble skirts at rstglance. It’s all about function — and wearing them with an air of studied nonchalance thatbe ts the modern urbanite.

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