Yet day-to-day life may seem unexciting, sometimes uncertain, or too steady, the ambiguity underneath should always be embraced and celebrated. RUI AW22 collection is about an observation of ambiguous impact from a significant decision or subtle changes that we pay less attention to. It invites the mind to places undisclosed or enfolded. The collection itself shows a subtle but distinct sense of ambition to progress beyond the beautifully made but also explores a genuine functionality and the innovative use of wool and cashmere, orchestrated by a startling honesty between tenderness and strength.

Something much more nuanced, fresh, and developed is being ushered in. Partly using 3D whole-garment seamless knits and silk jacquard fabric with a quilted texture, RUI AW22 not only pushes the boundaries of form, silhouette, and surface but also continues to pursue an ethereal and comfortable texture. RUI improves fine-gauge knits with a delicate pattern. Unlike traditional tubular only used for decoration trims, the extra-fine merino asymmetry purple dress and top make full use of the functionality with whole-garment knitting, based on a body figure, then, spiral the knits around the body with fishbone in delicate and flexible contortions for loose-fitting coziness.

Ingenious design can be found in simple but smart pieces. Offering styling versatility, a cyan halter top can be worn in front-or-side ways. One dot-shaped jacquard fabric after artful warping turns into an exquisite dress, skirt, or tube scarf, like the M bius strip. Looking more closely at those unnoticed details in AW22, there is a lot to unpack: a merlot hat flats as the 2D circle but appears connected with water chestnuts crack after unfolding; the knitted pointelle long dress presents peacock feathers sheer; pleated allochroic pants and dress spiral twisted like shells, and worsted wool fabric shows gloss and gentleness on suits. Interpreted RUI’s signature piece with a photo humorously, that’s how the first

T-shirt was born, which echoes with a few street senses that the embroidery wool hoodie and flared trousers created. RUI’s signature beading technique recurs in handmade crochet pieces, while the extremely skin-friendly fluffy miniskirt and tube top form a safe space for everyone to land, it also delivers a natural lived-in feeling.

Forever in flux, RUI not merely continues its home goods line with new glass plates and jacquard blankets, but also diversifies accessories like quilted silk cashew bag, “C” barb thorns silver earrings and rings, a laser cut brooch, a pair of black leather gloves, as well as a pair of pumps with front cut-out, embellished with slender long hair. All upped the sharp but soft romance feeling. 

RUI’s presentation in Palais de Tokyo is fermenting with time passing by, turning a one-minute moment into a one-hour daydream. Lost in a space full of white furniture, as a big canvas, models walk freely and paint it with colored pieces, revealing long and steady emotions without fluctuations. Viewers are immersed in a static noise, as if not paying attention to the slowly melting ice cube in the video, unable to notice any changes at the moment. That’s perhaps how we experience time in a way in our life.

RUI AW22 finds the life-inspired appeal and elevates to new heights, whose sophistication is matched by body inclusiveness. There is transformation and warmth at this moment.


Video by : Luthfi Darwis

Photographer : Xiangyu Liu

Styling : Laëtitia Gimenez

Casting : Sébastien Hernandez Bertrand

Models : Paola, Cleopatra, Honest, Segolene, Lili, Dami, Meg, Hodi, Sarah, Titouan

Hair : Yann Turchi

Make-Up : Aurore Gibrien

Choreographer : Nicolas Huchard

Music : Qu Qiu Fan

Location : Palais de Tokyo / Galerie du Capricorne

Production : Sitdown

Head of Production : Jenny Pretschker

Production Director : Mathilde Hesse