PETER DO’S HELMUT LANG COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2024
words by MAREK BARTEK
After the first Peter Do’s show at Helmut Lang, the wave of unsatisfied voices was so strong, I myself was taken aback. The critiques of missing the visible Helmut Lang masculinity, though fully justifiable, made me wonder if fashion people can ever be satisfied. In my head it was only logical that shifting from his namesake label, Do will have to go through various stages (just as other designers do) before he can fully settle in his new role. When asked about the reviews, Do said: “The last show was a foundational reset; we spent a lot of time working on those blocks (meaning silhouettes and patterns), and all of those blocks for spring became these. I couldn’t be here without doing that first.”
Agreeing with his statement one hundred percent, we can see Peter is balancing between Lang and Do. While the first show was more Peter Do with Lang influences, Fall/Winter collection turned out to be Helmut Lang with a touch of Do — this time with the more-than-apparent masculine vibes. Peter took tailoring as his focal point, saying he’d like “people to be able to tell that this is Helmut tailoring from miles away.” His sartorial skills manifested in the collection of tailored jackets and coats with seams and darts on the sleeves and from back to front that all point to the center. The suits are cut in such a specific way, they truly are Lang-beautiful.
Playing with the idea of protection and projection, and how these two elements can come together, we were served some of the more literal versions like the look 1, as well as more conceptual approaches to this theme. Whether we talk about the raised collar shearling jacket, the balaclavas or the not-really-bulletproof bulletproof-like vest Do explores the ideas of functionality versus visual connotations.
Of course, as mentioned before, it wouldn’t be fashion if people weren’t complaining. Considered as a potential weak spot of this collection are the too literal pulls from Helmut Lang’s archive. But if there is one thing Peter Do is known for, it is his persistence till perfected. His consistent growth as both a designer and a business is a piece of evidence no one can deny. And so, I think the third time will the charm for Peter to find the right ratio, so that even the toughest of fashion lovers are happy.
all images HELMUT LANG via vogue.com