Presented in Paris as part of the fashion week calendar, Paul Smith’s SS23 women’s collection continues the louche mood of the men’s 1980s-inspired runway collection, with a strong emphasis on contemporary tailoring and a versatile interpretation of evening wear.

Blurring the lines between day-to-night, the collection is defined by a sleek, feminine silhouette with a distinctly relaxed mood in keeping with the season. Sophisticated tailoring, refined dresses and modern outerwear dominate the collection, with premium fabrics including linen, boucle, jersey, suiting and satin.

Tailoring is at the heart of the collection, presenting a thoroughly modern take on traditional suiting codes and echoing the themes of the menswear collection. A sleeveless vest suit, with an asymmetric angular closure and strong shoulders, styled with coordinating shorts provides the clearest proof of this departure, meanwhile a “three-piece suit” in the form of a satin shirt, cropped bustier and high-waisted trouser offers a more youthful interpretation.

Evening suits also feature prominently, inspired by Paul’s musical icons of the 1970s and 80s. Tailored with a strong shoulder, minimal construction and nipped in waist, the jacket gives the impression of an oversized, boyfriend-inspired silhouette without overwhelming the frame, ensuring a flattering fit. Available as a black and white linen tuxedo-style two-piece, a white satin tuxedo or in a placement Untitled stripe print, the louche, relaxed looks are designed to provide a statement alternative to formal dresses.

Dresses this season deliberately juxtapose casual elements with more formal references. In particular, jersey column dresses with strategically placed rouching through the body and sleeves nod to classical Grecian gowns while also alluding to sportier styles meaning they can be dressed up or down. Presented in rich tones of cobalt and burnt orange, the colours are designed to recall the heat of summer. Referencing the season’s underlying theme, classic men’s shirting is reinterpreted into a lightweight asymmetric day dress, made from patchwork striped cotton poplin as well as the aforementioned cropped bustier.

Similarly, in outerwear, coloured and printed lightweight trenches offer an exaggerated shape, providing a feminine interpretation of silhouettes historically understood to be masculine. Boxy cropped jackets – one in buttery leather and another with the placement Untitled print – offer a clean-lined take on more classic shapes.

Prints span shirting and dresses and include the Hot Summer floral, an abstract design inspired by 1980s airbrushing techniques alongside an airy Cloud print that summons the spirit of warm summer days.