Inspired by the work of pioneering modernist designers and architects, Paul Smith’s AW23 presentation in Paris features new interpretations of tailoring, a contemporary take on heritage fabrics and a confident collage of abstract prints.

The evolution of the three-piece suit, first introduced in SS23, continues this season, this time with a crewneck vest and streamlined longline jacket. Another hallmark Paul Smith motif – the Signature Stripe – is also developed for AW23 with the embossed, tonal Shadow Stripe across outerwear, accessories, and footwear in black and white.

The palette this season features striking interruptions of black, grey, white and vibrant cobalt blue which serve as a graphic juxtaposition to the warmth of the underlying autumnal scheme of burgundy, browns and mauve. Traditional fabrics, such as tweed, houndstooth and bouclé, are reinterpreted to offer an innovative take on texture. 

Held at the American Cathedral in Paris – a gothic revival landmark in the city – the show is scored by renowned British DJ Gilles Peterson for the second season with music that blends genres across hip-hop, jazz, spoken word, groove, dub, bassline, afrobeat, and funk to mirror the confident tone of the collection.