PARIS FASHION WEEK DIARY: MEN’S SS24!
Words by Anano Shalamberidze
It feels like we were all just in Paris, but fashion does not stop, baby, so here we are again! This time, the temperatures had risen considerably, even so that the city was swamped with branded fans that this or that label had distributed to prevent their guests from dropping like flies. Anyway, if you managed to survive the heatstroke, here’s a Paris Fashion Week Diary: Men’s SS24!
Wednesday, June 21st
In a dimly lit venue, for Spring/Summer 24 season, designers Florentin Glémasee and Kewin Nompeix embraced a new kind of masculinity. “Bodies are blossoming like the flower of evil… break free from conventions and mingle in an endless soirée.” The EGONLAB designers highlighted that their clothes have always been regarded as vehicles for self-expression, encompassing elements like nudity and the breaking of societal dress norms, while maintaining a sense of sophistication. In the current era of daring fashion choices, the perception of vulgarity, much like beauty, ultimately lies in the eyes of the beholder.
Oh, and bumsters are back? We love a McQueen reference.
ACNE STUDIOS chose to forgo their usual extravagant show and instead presented over 300 new pieces of menswear this season. Inspired by a modern-day sightseer, the SS24 collection embraces eccentric vacation style and the ever-evolving versatility of denim. The collection has a distinct unisex vibe, incorporating the brand’s signature codes through intentionally mismatched layering and quirky accessories. And there’s so much pink!
Thursday, June 22nd
HOMME PLISSE ISSEY MIYAKE
In a true ISSEY MIYAKE fashion, the show wasn’t just a standard defilé.
Paying homage to the pleating technique that is quintessential to the house of Miyake, the show commenced with a roll of pleated paper being unveiled on the ground. As the paper unfurled, it revealed the pleated garments inside, and the design team appeared to dress the models on stage.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Flowy, easy, and airy, the DRIES VAN NOTEN SS24 collection was a breath of seriously fresh air. The earth toned array of clothing floated through the runway in a sun-lit white room during sunset. The silk trench coats and blouses whish-whooshed around gracefully, the furry flip-flops adding a whimsical touch. I overheard someone sitting next to me mention something about having goosebumps.
YUMEYUME’s dream-like world of 3D printed hearts and puffed-up shoewear has become even dreamier and puffier for the spring/summer “Underwater Flow” collection. The familiar silhouettes are now introduced in new colors and shapes, with my favorite being the metallic boots – made for walking!
Friday, June 23rd
I have to say, ARTURO OBEGERO might have taken the prize home for the best presentation (that I attended at least) this season. Titled “Surfer du Soir,” the Spanish designer crafted a captivating romantic fantasy. Exploring the dichotomy between reality and dreams, the SS24 presentation, besides lace bodysuits and elegant eveningwear, included being serenaded by Rotterdam-based musician and clarinetist Tim Wes.
MAISON MIHARA YASUHIRO
“Recently, I have been in a memory haze” was the first sentence to MIHARA YASUHIRO’s show notes.
This season, Mihara takes on a reimagined Acid theme, delving into his nostalgic memories of exploring Lo-Fi music from the late 80s and 90s during his teenage years. The runway showcased oversized silhouettes and blurred colors that embodied the essence of that era. Adding a touch of humor, the collection featured comincally large dinosaur bags. Throughout the creative process, a constant voice echoed in Mihara’s mind, asking, “Do you want to go back to those days?”
In honor of its 30th anniversary, a South Korean brand established in 1993 celebrated with a special SS24 collection that embraced its rebellious spirit. Entitled “Pure Rebel,” the collection showcased a combination of sculptural and flowy designs, striking a balance between elegance and youthful edge. The unconventional menswear silhouette was accentuated by bow-adorned shoewear and deconstructed tailoring. Interestingly, the show began with a robot filming the audience, though its purpose remains unclear.
In addition to SONGZIO’s signature black, this season’s color palette embraced light and soft tones, including ivory, beige, ecru, and crème. These hues were further highlighted by subtle pops of pale lime and salmon pink, adding a refreshing touch to the collection.
Saturday, June 24th
FENG CHEN WANG
Drawing inspiration from designer FENG CHEN WANG’s childhood memories of accompanying her grandmother on walks through the mountains of Fujian, China, the SS24 collection was aptly titled “Memories. Imprinted.”The show took place in the courtyard of Lycée Montaigne and paid homage to an ancient Chinese botanical contact printing method. Working with local Chinese artisans, Wang took some of her grandmothers favorite plants and pounded them on Chinese silk, creating a unique visual effect.
Also, having a live band play at your show was IN this season apparently.
Dare I say show of the season? Show of the season, I say!
Colm Dillane, the eccentric genius behind the success of Brooklyn-based KIDSUPER, once again pushed the boundaries of conventional runways. This time, Mr. Dillane took us to Paris’ Théâtre de l’Odéon for a performance titled “How to find an idea,” featuring himself and actors showcasing the latest SS24 collection. The 20-minute play, filled with inspirational monologues and thought-provoking ideas about creativity and risk-taking, received a thunderous round of applause, surpassing anything heard in Paris all week. On stage, KidSuper’s SS24 looks showcased patchwork suits, artwork-printed overcoats, and classic button shirts adorned with Dillane’s signature face motif.
The energy in the room was unparalleled- exuberant, chaotic, contagious. MARINE SERRE’s runway featured an electrifying mix of the brand’s signature elements and innovative recycled pieces, showcased by a star-studded lineup including Teanna Taylor, Aron Piper, Sevdaliza, Miguel, and Noah Cyrus. Collection titled “Heartbeat” offered a mix of seasonal one-hit wonders, rare gems, and timeless classics, as said by Marine herself.
So, what makes your heart beat?