NEW YORK FASHION WEEK fall/winter 2024 RECAP
words by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER
editor MAREK BARTEK
From the 9th to the 14th of February all eyes were on the Big Apple where prestigious labels and guests gathered to attend the myriad of magical shows. Between romanticism, beauty and provocation, this year’s Fall/Winter Fashion Week of the city that never sleeps was not one to miss!
FRIDAY 09/02
HELMUT LANG
For this season, the New York-based minimalist label presented a cool and sober-tone oriented collection where cut-outs and playful materials created a darker twist on a classical wardrobe. House’s creative director Peter Do used bubble-wrap-like fabric to bring a transparent effect to life, and the result is worthy of a post-apocalyptic science-fiction movie. The presentation of reconstructed blazers and shirts brought a chic and effortless look with a slightly grunge spin. The lines were straight and precise, and the well-placed runway walks gave movements and unique elegance to the garments.
TOMMY HILFIGER
For his first return to the runway since September 2022, Tommy Hilfiger presented a classic vestiaire, remaining in the codes of the renowned house. The designer took a visible interest in the oversize that appeared on scarfs, coats and knitted sweaters. The camel colour was an honorary guest and was showcased on trousers, large blazers and long skirts. A full three-piece suit sported the “Prince of Wales” print and almost felt like an invitation for a vacation in a British country house.
WILLY CHAVARRIA
To end the first day of the American Fashion Week, we headed to the Willy Chavarria show. Its sportswear aesthetic was grounded in a very typical New Yorker style from the 80’s. Carrying some strong mafia style inspirations (The Soprano fans beware), leather jackets met tracksuits and felt hats paired with apparent golden jewelry representing religious figures all came together in a perfectly cohesive collection. It made us want to rewatch Scarface over and over again.
SATURDAY 10/02
ANNA SUI
The British aesthetic was everything for the Parsons alumni. The almost omnipresent argyle print appearing on sweaters, socks and scarfs brought back nostalgia from boarding school, silk scarves worn as headpieces were an ode to the 2023 cottagecore trend. The looks were soft and dreamy, and reintroduced a romantic femininity to the runway. As the show progressed, the collection slowly turned into a darker and more elegant nighttime wardrobe, transforming the models into 1930’s London clubbers. Long black or metallic dresses came as a direct opposite to the first looks’ hues and softness but embodied the same ethereal ambiance.
SUNDAY 11/02
SANDY LIANG
Doing what she does best, Sandy Liang presented a feminine and preppy collection. The voluminous and flowy lines combined with a pastel palette, carrying an undeniable Sandy Liang signature. The soft pinks and bows characteristics of her brand sported on garments, bags and in the models hairstyles. Next to those, soft coloured teddy fur jackets and their matching hats brought a sense of infancy to the show. And, of course, ballerinas were everywhere – a perfect addition to the looks.
LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN
For his New York debut, the French designer paid homage to Robert Mapplethorpe, the famous erotic photographer. Through his signature sexy looks, the cleavage motif evolved and could be seen on the back of trousers, alongside transparent mesh where flowery details took the center stage. We retrieved the longitude and elegance in the outfits that the designer got us used to. Leather and metallic eyelets gave us the raw and unapologetically sensual style we were begging for.
MONDAY 12/02
COACH
Two days before Valentine’s Day, Stuart Vevers took us on a love ride with ample skirts and fluid garments that oscillated between pink, purple and more neutral tones. Large bows on tank tops mixed with classic denims in the perfect representation of effortless chic. Long sweaters and cardigans worn as dresses felt like something to wear on a cold Sunday morning, and the oversized trench coats offered themselves as a perfect staple to stroll around the city with coffee in hand. The iconic bags were a combination of large cabas worn with their smaller counterparts sporting the emblematic “C” of the house.
TORY BURCH
Elegance and exploration were the keywords for the Tory Burch show. Delicious materials came to sublimate serious lines and created movement while catching the light. Ruffled dresses alternated the plastic trenches perfect for rainy New York, and the kitten heels were the perfect classy touch to top it all.
TUESDAY 13/02
MICHAEL KORS
Michael Kors’ goal was to keep us warm this season, and we can say that he definitely succeeded. At the old Barneys store in Chelsea, the show started with the models coming down a staircase making us long for more. Kors elegantly presented a modern woman not afraid to wear a transparent lace dress, a large pink fur coat or a deconstructed sweater for comfort, because nothing is sexier than feeling good in what you are wearing. The American designer brought back Amber Valletta, prettier than ever, she modeled in a long leopard printed coat.
LUAR
Luar’s collection dubbed “metrosexual” was a perfect way to conclude the New York Fashion Week. With the highly covered Beyonce’s attendance, she made an appearance in her now signature cowboy hat we have all seen her wear at the Grammys. (yes, we are all excited for her upcoming country album). Raul Lopez used glossy red and blue leather as a statement, and broad shoulders of the jackets made this runway even bolder. The designer showed us that he is not afraid to take stances, referencing a zebra devoré reminiscent of Tom Ford, a notorious metrosexual of his time. A very exciting runway that played along its name to present gender fluid looks and create a unique Luar signature by drawing inspirations from the designer’s Dominican origins. Huge fur gloves brought a funny touch to the collection. We definitely wouldn’t mind having a pair for warm and cosy winter times.
cover image MICHAEL KORS via vogue.com
