For AW23, Nensi Dojaka’s eternal inspiration, the flower, is revisited in hand-pleated tulle panels, frills enhancing bra cups and hips, and leggings with mini godets of tulle unfurling like petals at the ankle. Flared dresses take on a different construction from previous seasons, with tulle godets that start below the waist and open up during movement.

A play on sheer and opaque materials comes in the form of knitted cut-out leggings; sweatpants with hip strap detailing and elongated cuff hems; and hybrid denim trousers with georgette panels and lace inserts. The collection toys with nostalgic references through the use of embroidery, stretch velvet, and turtlenecks adorned with tulle, wool, jersey, glitter mesh and bows.

For outerwear, cropped leather and tailored jackets enhance the form of the body – the latter gently closing with a bow fastening. A faux-fur coat is embellished with Swarovski crystals, like frost settling on blades of grass.

Nensi Dojaka introduces a new silhouette for evening wear: a fitted skirt in fine jersey, with further godets of tulle. A ‘snowdrop’ dress – crafted from cotton, pearls and Swarovski crystals embroidered onto tulle – is designed to mimic the effect of falling snow. A nude illusion gown, replete with Swarovski crystals, traces the outline of a silhouette.

A colour palette of black, crushed berry, red, and white is carried throughout the collection and is also present in the footwear and accessories. Both kitten and high heels are crafted using tulle, fine jersey, velvet, leather, and satin – whilst tulle and leather ankle boots are introduced for the first time. Nensi Dojaka has collaborated with Bunney to create earrings, two necklaces, waist belt cuffs, and a headband, using silver and leather.