After New York and London, the second half of February belonged to the Italian capital of fashion and its own take on Autumn/Winter 2024 Womenswear Fashion Week. The Milanese streets overflowed with creatives and guests from all over the world who came to see the greatly expected shows. Mixing digitals with live presentations, this week was full of surprises and set the tone for the upcoming seasons.



Glenn Martens revolutionised the way we attend fashion shows. This time, he invited hundreds of people to watch the runway from the comfort of their home via Zoom. Reminiscent of the COVID-19 era, this initiative brought us all back to when screens were our only window to the world. Staying true to his post-apocalyptic aesthetic, the fabric faded to transparency to create a plunging décolletage on shirts or a fake distressed effect on pants. The mixing of materials went from washed leather, through the renowned denims of the house, all the way to floral prints spotted on skirts and ripped dresses. Destroyed and grungy look is now one of the signatures, the Belgian creative director has been infusing to the brand since his arrival in 2022.

all images DIESEL A/W 24 via showstudio.com


In a décor worthy of a theatre, the Fendi show had some Far-East inspiration. Coats with straight and precise lines from the collar to the bottom, dark greys and browns on pencil skirts, and knitted details showcased on cotton jackets – all brought back memories of a modern Japanese wardrobe. Hints of colours as seen on a geometrical purple bolero over an ankle-length cloak or yellow fabric corset belt gave the outfits movement and definition. 

all images FENDI A/W 24 via showstudio.com


Marble was everywhere on Roberto Cavalli’s Autumn/Winter 2024 runway. Often  paired with snakeskin boots, the effect was visible on co-ord sets, dresses as well as immense puffer jackets. To create a contrast, the rest of the runway showed darker outfits, with Mariacarla Boscono wearing a holed sparkly sweater imitating a spider web. Playing with the silhouettes to highlight the fabrics definitely paid off. Flowy or fitted, you can’t say that Fausto Puglisi did not have fun with it.

all images ROBERTO CAVALLI A/W 24 via showstudio.com



In an intricate setting marrying nature and futurism, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons told us that the bow trend is not dead (yet). Knee-length column dresses sported bows by dozens like a monogram. Prada presented a classic, chic and effortless vestiaire, digging in a cool office-wear aesthetic with a hint of vintage. The cropped biker jackets were to die for, definitely a piece we will see more and more. Fur pieces embellishing long dresses at their collars or shoulders serve as clear evidence that even Prada, though discreetly, loves the mob wife trend.

all images PRADA A/W 24 via showstudio.com


After the gigantic Artisanal Collection of the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, all eyes were on Maison Margiela for their Womenswear collection. Despite a huge visual difference between the two runways, they both embodied House’s many qualities. In the continuation of Margiela’s famous style, the shoulders were square and the tops sleeveless to materialise a slender allure. The dark nuances frequented colourful purple and yellow outfits, all in subtle hues. The bags were omnipresent and fashioned in various shapes and forms. 

all images MM6 MAISON MARGIELA A/W 24 via showstudio.com


Debuting his work this season, Adrian Appiolaza’s take on the brand’s legacy felt refreshing. The collection was pretty distant from what we could find under Jeremy Scott’s reign. Appiolaza retrieved the maximalist statement pieces and the assemblage to bring crazy outfits to life, but the tones were earthy and dark, unlike his predecessor’s love for flashy colours. The focus was on a daily wardrobe anchored in early 2010 fashion with oversized t-shirts, smiley mohair sweaters and the presence of polka dotted garments on the runway. A promising debut that keeps us interested in the times to come.

all images MOSCHINO A/W 24 via showstudio.com


It does not matter that the cruise collections are presented in summer. Peter Hawkings’ Tom Ford definitely wanted us to set sail, with a collection greatly inspired by the marine and its facets. Be it military inspired vests with gold buttons, a striped sailor dress or night outfits perfect to party on a yacht, the sea was the guiding line of this collection. Transparent fishnet dresses styled with fur coats brought a touch of glamour to the runway.

all images TOM FORD A/W 24 via showstudio.com

FRIDAY 23/02


Leopard is the print of the season, and Blumarine clearly affirmed this in their Autumn/Winter 24 collection. Showcased on thighs and paired with a black slip dress and long coat, it worked as a weirdly satisfying juxtaposition to light, neutral floral print dresses. Ample shirts and a teddy fur sweater served as a reminder of the brand’s love for the Y2K style. Walter Chiapponi’s passion for transparent garments manifested in an unforgettable mesh shirt with nipples hidden under big black hearts.

all images BLUMARINE A/W 24 via showstudio.com


Gucci embodied perfectly the party girl vibe. Covered in sequins or made of transparent lace, Gucci’s dresses would get you in any club you want. And after a long night out, just throw one of the big cosy coats on your shoulders. Despite all this, Sabato maintained a very romantic touch throughout the collection, while presenting a strong woman sure of her fashion choices. 

all images GUCCI A/W 24 via showstudio.com


The first half of the Versace show could have been an ode to Stendhal’s most famous novel. Black and red were literally everywhere, something left as a block of colour, other times visible on tartan and leopard prints. It created an interesting contrast with the second half of the collection, which was focused on yellow and brown tones, and the iconic Medusa-inspired print made its appearance (this time mixed with leopard, obviously). A tremendous runway that affirmed the identity of the brand as one to watch every season.

all images VERSACE A/W 24 via showstudio.com



Ferragamo made some noise this season with a red armour dress acclaimed on social media. Fashionistas everywhere tackled the mystery of which material was used to create this movement while catching the light. Glossy leather was guilty as charged, and we saw it appearing on dresses, trenches and full shirt-pants outfits (and a tie to pair with the look). Long fringes acted as skirts, underlining the renaissance of the cowboy aesthetic. Brown and khaki tweed came into the spotlight, shown on vests, coats and dresses. 

all images FERRAGAMO A/W 24 via showstudio.com


Dolce & Gabbana’s runway invited us to take a dive in the darkest mafia funeral you have ever seen, but only if you’re on the list. Black veils covered the models’ faces, elevating the drama. Black lace was the honorary guest, and the dark kitten heels with pointy toe served as an innocent version of the high stilettos. Shining silver garments appeared on the runway but they did not stay long, and a sublime Naomi Campbell closed the show, revealing some skin in the classiest way possible. 

all images DOLCE & GABBANA A/W 24 via tagwalk.com


Avoidant to social media presence, the Italian house went back on stage with a collection anchored in the brand’s codes. House’s iconic soft shiny leathers were presented alongside well-cut garments playing with volumes. Shapes were a game in this runway, skirts reminiscent of sea anemones, and tops were in its 80’s David Bowie era. Colours were as usual mastered by Matthieu Blazy and got perfectly paired with more neutral tones, creating an agreeable contrast on the outfits. 

all images BOTTEGA VENETA A/W 24 via showstudio.com

SUNDAY 25/02


Beate Karlsson got us used to runways that are thought more as concepts than traditional fashion presentation. The final show of this Milanese Autumn/Winter 24 season was one for the history books. The guests had at their disposal full trash bins, and were invited to throw it on the models and the garments. The idea of voicing your opinions and critiques right away brought a strong sense of ephemerality to the show. The looks seemed right out of the most stylish teenager’s wardrobe you’ve ever met, displaying cut-out hoodies, torn thighs and oversized striped shirts paired with a reworked tie shaped like a star. The models wore bruises and bandages as makeup, emphasising the destroyed and grunge ambiance of the show.  

all images AVAVAV A/W 24 via showstudio.com

cover image TOM FORD A/W 24 via vogue.com