“Taking something and pushing it in the opposite direction, mixing different identities and ideas, creates garments that are both easy and uncomplicated but also surprising and complex.

A trenchcoat in technical cotton and a shirt in the pipeline have their front and back panels replaced by fluid pleats or sequins, turning them into floaty tops and dresses. The outline of a denim jacket or pant is merged with technical cotton or padded nylon, turning it into new coats that are part denim jackets, part winter coats. Bouts of lace are added to the waist of tailored pants, shirts, or zipped skirts, and when worn together, they create the illusion of wearing a lace belt. Tailored classic jackets (both new and vintage) in wool and pinstripe have incrusted belts in sequins cinching the waist. Another jacket has its lower half replaced by ruffles in duchesse, transforming it into an evening top.

The classic vertical pleats of a tuxedo shirt are placed in different directions on shirts and coats, creating unexpected volume at the shoulder and waist. Nylon bomber jackets have their front and sleeve panels replaced by pinstripe or double-face wool, giving them a new identity. Finally, parts of a pleated skirt and dress are printed with gold, creating the illusion of wearing a belt or breastpiece.

A huge thank you to AZ Factory, whose incredible and generous support made this show possible.”

Words by Lutz Huelle