words by Hannah Atira

The essence of New York underground fashion was most definitely in full effect at Luar’s Autumn Winter 2024 show. Held in their ever faithful Brooklyn location, Luar brought out the entire city even receiving the official stamp of approval from Queen B herself. A freezing cold winter night, a warehouse, Beyonce and a captivating collection made Luar one of the most memorable shows of the season.

The idea was deceptionista, or rather how society returns back to heteronormative programming after moments of disruption or “deception”. Dancing the line between masculine and feminine, Raul Lopez of Luar pushed the boundary even further this season through the fluctuation of silhouettes on his uniquely diverse cast of models.

A continuation of his signature oversized tailoring and dramatized shoulder pads made a few appearances this season. The tailoring was prominently captured in a deep teal, double breasted, leather suit jacket, as well as in a floor length wool coat. While shoulder pads made their way onto crew neck sweaters creating a juxtaposition between strong and soft. Another familiar shoulder structure was further explored in new fabrications this season including knit and jersey. By raising the shoulder to nearly an ear level height, pieces such as a Coogi reminiscent sweater, chocolate knit dress and denim shirt jacket all challenged the norm, creating nearly couture gender neutral pieces.

Merging the worlds of couture and ready to wear could be seen in staple pieces with a Raul touch making them one of a kind. Printed denim, sheer button downs, and mixed media hoodies all proved to elevate the idea of basics to the next level, capturing the essence of Luar.

Further pushing the idea of gender fluid dressing was an exploration of previous time periods where more feminine attire for men was socially acceptable. Equally reflecting a womens scarf belt of today and a mens cummerbund of yesteryear was a structurally crafted, deep teal leather waistband accessorized with a diamond encrusted bangle. While a unisex leather pencil skirt and a floor length sheer button down made their own statements as well.

Rounding out with new iterations of now Luar classics were new textures and colors in the Ana bag and Brooke tote. While Raul’s take on a 80’s collarless bomber found its match in his signature embossed leather.