Identity as a performative act. The LOEWE SS24 women’s campaign, shot by David Sims, transcends the different identities of artist Lynda Benglis as re-enacted by LOEWE’s three female Brand Ambassadors: actresses Taylor Russell and Yang Mi, as well as the newest to join the family, Lim Ji-Yeon.

The three women are depicted in a series of identical vignettes that cue the well-known, confrontational iconography of the artist: in the studio working, living her own life, stirring provocation through the art world. A varied range of emotions is brought to life with the individual prowess of acting chameleons. A giant of post-war American sculpture who has redefined the art object through her ceaseless innovation with form and materiality, Lynda Benglis is the inspiration behind the collection, both as a personality and the designer of the sculptural jewellery pieces that adorn some of the looks. Taylor Russell, Yang Mi and Lim Ji-Yeon each gives her own take on Benglis’ iconic posed portraits, sporting the elongated silhouettes, the textural knits, the draped dresses and the twisted daywear that define the pragmatic yet unconventional spirit of the season. They are caught reclining on a table, sitting on a ladder, leaning against a car, the Screen and Square sunglasses bringing further nuance to the characters. In one image, Taylor Russell holds a feather mask in her hand as she looks straight into the camera, recreating a famous Benglis ad. The environments suggest situations of studio work and domesticity: the continuity between the jewellery pieces and Benglis’ sculptures becomes most apparent ‘in the studio’, suggesting another layer of interpretation.

The still-life picture are just as performative, depicting bags and shoes—among which a family of soft bags that include the Flamenco Purse, the Squeeze, and Puzzle, together with the Hammock Compact, and then the Comic Folded Pump, Campo Mary Jane mule, Campo sandal, Toy Pump, and Toy Ballerina—as if they are caught acting, too: collapsing, folding, standing on a podium, hung at the rear view mirror of the car.

With its stress on impersonation, the campaign is all about life as action, and blunt yet eerie directness.