Jacquemus presents the new collection "La Montagne" for Spring & Summer
After pausing their shows for a year, they have arrived at La Montagne. They set out to explore men’s and women’s fashion once again together and with exhilaration; to elevate a Pop feeling; to reinvent our codes with extra strength.
Thus, we drew inspiration from trek and ski garments: crisp, technical fabrics; a mix of earthy and vibrant colours; reinterpreted outerwear; carabiners and strap systems that are both decorative and functional. Yet we also integrated lingerie features, interpreting contoured shapes and details in our own language of sensuality. Styling crosses over while proportions are constantly redrawing the body – from second-skin ribbed knits to ample, fold-over pants cinched with cord. In this shared wardrobe, men wear crop tops and women wear large cargo pants. The outcome: silhouettes that develop sport references with sexiness – at once multipurpose and exciting at first sight.
The collection proposes sharp constructions throughout: tailoring in stretch wool that is soft and fluid, or else lightly padded. Pants are cut long and lean with hook-and-eye fastenings that create flared legs. Dresses in viscose, lycra and mohair are similarly fitted and include slinky columns and angular skirts with delineated waistlines and deep slits. Crisp, coated wool jackets and poplin shirts are assembled with modular details such as an integrated belt bag or detachable pockets.
Outerwear garments are reimagined with a streetwear slant: jackets in ripstop or impermeable fabrics; detachable elements that transform into shorts; thumbholes in fluffier knits. Shearling makes its debut – from cropped to oversized, natural camel and ivory to crystal blue.
Layering takes many forms – from second-skin knits visible under larger volumes, to hybrid roll-up bustiers and harnesses worn over blouses and shirts. Colours are layered throughout the line-up, too. Tonal groupings of ecru, sand, khaki green and darker brown alternate with a vivid sport-inspired palette comprising saturated red, orange and shades of pink. For balance, cool blues are accented with optic green. Black reframes the sport attitude with sophisticated allure.
Surfaces are layered with fine straps and custom hardware – shiny gold clips and clasps, lingerie finishings and signature Jacquemus nameplates. Floppy flower petals are tacked onto puffer jackets for dimension, in addition to appearing as an all-over tonal or contrast motif.
All materials are of European origin, which allows for improved traceability and lower transport time, ultimately redu- cing the carbon footprint. Suppliers are largely eco-responsible in their manufacturing methods.
The new bag, Ciuciu, offers a compact horizontal shape that is rigid and boxy with an exaggerated chain and thick strap boasting a functional pocket. Jacquemus socks in recycled ribbed cotton, offered in a spectrum of complemen- tary hues, convey the completeness of each look.
Says Simon, “For this collection, after such a particular year, I wanted to gather people inside and share a fashion moment together. I wanted to focus on the clothes, the silhouettes, the colours, the fabrics, the details, and the energy of the models. I wanted the set to be minimal and sharp, recreating an abstract artistic mountain that portrays the ins- piration of the collection.”