IT’S ALL ABOUT LAYERS: DIESEL PRESENTS PRE-FALL 2024 COLLECTION
The layers of Diesel: democratic experimentation, technical innovations and reborn archetypes all fuel Pre-Fall 2024. Layering is built into looks, like fabrics layered and bonded like posters on a billboard, while layers are created by signature Diesel treatments and finishes. It’s all about the layers of possibility, with catwalk ideas made even more accessible for the global Diesel community.
“At Diesel we really push innovation in ways that makes it look easy. We’ve developed complex treatments in this collection that have taken years to perfect, used for pieces that you can just throw on and live your best Diesel life,” says Glenn Martens, creative director of Diesel.
For Diesel, there always more layers: a denim vest top is bonded with another layer of denim at the front, then lasered to show the details hidden beneath. The same bonding appears on the front of what looks like a denim skirt but is actually a denim apron front attached to denim jeans. The bonded and lasered denim panels also appear on jackets, skirts and jeans, while the attached fronts run throughout the collection, even on tailoring.
Trompe l’oeil plays with the eye, like a coat that looks like a leather jacket tucked into a denim skirt: it’s all one piece. It’s the same for what looks like a leather shirt tucked into the top of jeans – it’s all one coat, while what looks like denim shorts over leather pants are, again, all one piece. On some denim pieces, what looks like whiskering is the sheen of crystal embellishment.
Meanwhile, trompe l’oeil prints make a simple leather jacket look like its tricked out with moto detailing, and printed joggers look like cargo pants. There are also trompe l’oeil prints that make Diesel’s one-off catwalk pieces available for all, such as joggers printed with a scan of artisanal pieces from the SS23 runway show.
The mood is like you’ve been up all night and are ready for more: denim knit tops and denim knit cardigans are held together by criss-cross lacing; a little black knit halter neck dress is finished with a metal logo D in the cleavage. Double-layer jersey pieces are embroidered together in places then the top layer is cut into, creating an effect like large-scale webbing. Other jersey pieces are printed with Diesel film poster designs, the top layer then cut away to give the effect of a peeled-off billboard.
Metallic-coated little jersey dresses criss-cross the body with an exposed back; long metallic-coated dresses have zips across the chest to conceal or expose what you want. Printed plaid asymmetric little tops and skirts are as if the cloth has just been wrapped and tied on the body; printed plaid pants have a pair of printed plaid short shorts attached. A distorted print of rain also looks like one of animal skin, appearing on little long-sleeve dresses, padded jackets and even woven as a jacquard for cardigans.
There’s a fresh focus on archetypal pieces, for building a wardrobe with Diesel energy, like bomber jackets cut from denim. There’s also a padded pullover in jersey denim, or a zip neck padded denim top to wear day-in-day-out. Meanwhile, pin-stripe tailoring has a plasticised layer of coating on the front, subverting any formality.
Second-skin tech long-sleeve T’s and leggings, layered under looks, have a boucle effect. They seem simple, but which are the result of long-term development, each made from recycled polyester. Similar development has gone into the distressing of key padded looks, such as gilets, jackets and coats, which are still taped and functional.
A shimmering effect of distressed denim is created by a layer of paillettes on faux fur trimmed jackets, strappy dresses and jeans. Blazers and trenches look like they’re leather, but are actually double-coated denim that’s been baked. Finish everything with a chubby faux-fur zip-up or supersized scarf that’s printed with DIESEL.
Shoes, boots, mules and stilettos are taken over by the metal cage D, sometimes at the toe, other times on the heel. The brand new D-Airspeed low sneaker is printed with lines running front to back. The 1DR clutch bag is always in hand; the dynamic curves of the Play bag are made from recycled polyester.
Diesel Eyewear sunglasses, made in special collaboration with Essilor Luxottica, wrap around the face, with acetate fronts and metal finishes. There are two new watch styles joining the organic Metamorph range: the Streamline watch pops with colour from the dial to the intergrated silicone straps, while the D-sruptor is sleek with iridescent crystals and a link bracelet.