Presented on Thursday, June 23 at La Poste du Louvre in Paris, the HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE SPRING SUMMER 2023 collection, Flowers and Vases, looks at elements inspired by delicate flowers and robust vases. The collection features curved and straight folds in the uniformly pleated fabric, finished with twisting and layering garment constructions. The design explores the contrast between flowers and vases, thereby introducing a collective presence that is subtle and yet strong.

The show is directed by Rachid Ouramdane, the director of Théâtre National de Chaillot, and features a cast of models, performers, and members of the collective of acrobats, Compagnie XY. The show expresses the duality found in the collection in a performance that is both still and dynamic, steady and swift.

The VASE series is inspired by the form of the open vessel featuring gradual curves along its neck and body. Both the top and the coat can be folded into a flat, rounded shape, and once worn on the body, their edges stand out and fold towards the chest, creating a defined silhouette with subtlety in the curves.

The MONTHLY COLOR MARCH series features a lightweight, voluminous jacket in a round silhouette, inspired by the image of plants gently waving in the air. The pleats along the fold that runs across from sleeve to sleeve resemble leaf veins, adding an organic touch to the finished form.

The FLIP series features pockets that can be fastened upside down with snap buttons on both the front and the back of the garment. The functional design is inspired by the way a bud blooms into a flower.

The ACCLIMATION COAT series features a design that allows the wearer to transform it depending on the weather or their mood. The coat can be gathered around the waist with a drawstring, and its hem can be folded and fastened inward to wear as a new mid-length silhouette. The zipper on the hood can be opened to create a sailor collar or rolled up to form a standing collar.

The COTTON BOLLS is a print series of motifs inspired by the cotton plant, featuring freeform shapes made by dripping paint to express the natural appearance of the plant. The series is available in white, yellow and purple.

The STEM series is inspired by the way a node branches out from a stem. The pants feature diagonal folds resembling the nodes from which the pleats split. Unfastening the buttons at the hem allows the pants to open up for a wider silhouette.

The TUXEDO PLEATS series offers refined formalwear, made of a dense pleated fabric in gray and black. Styles available include a jacket with a clean shoulder line and pants in a silhouette resembling the calla lily.

CANVAS DECK SHOES-LOW The HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE and WAKOUWA shoe project this season features a low-cut model in pink and beige. The dark-color rubber covering the toe cap of the shoe adds a clean touch to the understated pastel color palette.