Hed Mayner Presents Its Spring/Summer 2023 Collection
Hed Mayner is keen to make sure his clothes do not appear as overwrought statements of seasonal quirk. The proportion of an archetypal men’s suit jacket has been magnified, reviewed over and over so that it sits on the body like a found object. What Mayner has been doing for some time now is use the upscaling of a garment as a way of destigmatizing it from class, gender and formality. Sometimes Mayner will slice the back away from parkas, duffle coats and suit jackets, creating what he likes to call a two-dimensional look. It is something very direct and clear when seen from the front but there is a decadence behind. For this season, new textures and displacements have been added to the oversize cut. The opening of a shirt is at the back.
A double-breasted blazer is treated like an apron. Fresh embroidered cottons are layered – sheer enough to glimpse an arm or a leg. The sensation is one of cotton that is treasured; first decorated then washed, ironed and starched on repeat before it comes into contact with skin. A sense of domestic textile guides how the clothes behave on the body. Antique bedlinen sourced from dealers in Paris and flea markets of Tel Aviv were the starting point for the ornate, rectangular line. Broderie anglaise embellished blouses are put onto the body through open backs – they are garments you dive into. Shorts are gathered, their frilled hems peak out from underneath longer tunics. The delicateness of the embroidery is not something feminine or even necessarily poetic; they relate to the sensation of feeling enveloped by fresh sheets in the early morning. This gathering of volume around the body is key to many of the pieces you can see here: salwar pants pleated at the waist are in fine cotton voile and worn layered. Hand knitted loops of cotton form sculptural knitwear. A square toe, hi-shine leather men’s shoe – otherwise ordinary in its form – is worn as a sandal. Its toe sliced away and its back pushed down.
This classicism is mirrored in the fine Italian suiting fabrics and the multiplicity of blue
They are made fantastic because of how Mayner cuts them.
In the jewellery too is a homely rhythm – a nod to things that we collect and apply onto ourselves. Mayner is presenting clothes as accessories.
The mood is almost ornate.