GmbH PRESENT THEIR ‘Untitled’ Fall/Winter 2023 Collection
If everything is political, does everything become meaningless?
Instead of the personal narratives, politics, and meanings we normally weave into GmbH collections and garments, we wanted to explore the freedom of pure aesthetics, pure form and silhouette. A sense of fashion, where the meaning is left to the cut, the fabrics, the finishings, the colours and the body. What happens if we allow ourselves the illusion of being designers who do not have to discuss their identities, or trauma as part of a collection, just like white designers can?
The formal exercise is presented with visceral live music, programmed and rhythmic, both analogue and digital by LABOUR, long time music collaborators of GmbH. The bodies of CITY BALLET CORPÊs dancers are gesturing, reminiscent of a fashion show from the past, stripped back, gutted to its form. A reaction to so much noise, that is deafening, and which absorbs and assimilates everything and everyone.
AUTUMN 2023, our first collection without a title, and internally referred to as ‘untitled’, focuses on the truest elements of GmbH, the codes and tropes of fashion, embracing the banalities and beauty of a knotted bow, the buttoning of a blazer, a clavicle revealing dress, a satin stole perhaps.
The colours are primarily shades of black with accents of pink, white and emerald green. The models wear boxy satin wool suits with contrasting satin stoles, dragging regally on the floor. Dresses in jersey, sheer mesh or velvet are fitted with utilitarian zippers or fake fur hugging the body. A handbag, our first, echoes the crossing straps of our tailoring. The criss-cross motif was originally inspired by our emblem, the hammer and pick, a universal symbol of mining. Bows of all sizes decorate tailored coats, but also becomes off-the-shoulder tops ready for a night out. Overknee boots in emerald green faux croc and black patent have chrome buckles with our new Kufic monogram. Ankle boots have a middle zipper going all the way to the front of the sole. Sharp and angular platform pumps and ankle boots are part of our first women’s collection. A new ASICS trainer collaboration is revealed in combinations of green and gold or black and white. Palladium silver earrings are made from our new monogram. Eyewear in silver and mirrored lenses are aerodynamic and utilitarian.
The wearing of garments, the carrying of a handbag, the walk, the posture – this is how the fashion and the body is left to speak for itself.
Benjamin & Serhat