GIVENCHY SS24 MEN’S COLLECTION EXPLORING ELEGANCE AND NONCONFORMITY
Elegance as a manifestation of individuality. Sartorialism as an act of nonconformity. A liberated sophistication. Givenchy explores the dynamic relationship between a new culture of masculine dressing and the traditional codes of the classic gentleman’s wardrobe in its Spring-Summer 2024 Men’s Collection. Artistic Director Matthew M. Williams, drawing from his own generational experience, keenly observes a reimagining of the archetypes of refined style: a fresh interpretation of the meticulously tailored silhouette, liberated from the constraints of traditional virtues.
This premise prompts an exploration of our formative encounter with elegance, embodied by the school uniform. Symbolizing both democracy and constraint, it becomes a canvas for teenage-driven customization—a quintessential archetype instinctively reappropriated based on functionality and personality. Crested knits, sweatshirts, and polos take on shrunken, scoop-necked, or cropped forms, playing with the notion of outgrown proportions and self-adaptation, juxtaposed with formidable overcoats. Redefining formality, schoolboy suits coexist with meticulously crafted tech jackets adorned with archival floral embroideries, hand-encrusted crystals, and a striking yellow and black construction in super-light calfskin.
The silhouette evolves into an exploration of essential wardrobe items elevated with luxurious techniques and fabrications. Longline t-shirts and jersey pieces, embellished with gems or hardware, play with shifting proportions alongside wide-leg cargo trousers and oversized chinos cinched with overlaying hooks. Iconic elements of the men’s wardrobe are meticulously handmade using double-face cotton, including trench coats, macs, and blousons. Hand-constructed double-face nylon outerwear, hoodies, and tops carrying the Givenchy Double Face Nylon label add contrasting lines to the silhouettes. Crinkled tracksuits, military smocks, and field jackets, treated with state-of-the-art fabric techniques and labeled Givenchy Garment Dyed, offer a modern twist. Denim takes on new forms with reimagined regular-fit jeans and hacked-off shorts.
Tuxedos crafted from lurex or brushed wool reflect a realistic proportion, neither oversized nor sculpted, with slightly elongated lengths and shortened sleeves as an homage to the foundational notion of sophistication. They epitomize customized elegance, featuring hand-made double-breasted silk-wool blazers with magnet closures, sculpted square shoulders achieved through hand-carved pads, and seamless backs. These intricate details are applied to a meticulously tailored haute couture military jacket in diagonal wool, replicating the texture of its authentic inspiration. The generational perspective on high dressmaking evolves into jumpsuits—a labor-intensive tailoring endeavor—echoed in waistcoats and trousers that create a harmonious silhouette.
Technical bags in suede, nylon, and webbing, worn around the waist, reinforce a genuine and functional approach to elegance. Paying homage to the schoolboy motif, backpacks in mixed tech materials and scuffed suedes adopt macro or micro dimensions, skillfully accentuating the play on proportions central to the collection. Triangular Voyou bags, featuring scuffed suedes, emerge as cross-body companions with silver and gold hardware. Magnified-toe derbies and boots, available in leather variations, alongside flat loafers, complete this hybrid proposal, reflecting a new mentality toward wardrobe curation. The collection introduces lightweight sneakers in nylon and corduroy, transforming the language of hiking shoes into an elegant form, seamlessly fusing sneaker and dress shoe constructions through the Maison’s savoir-faire.
Jewelry pays homage to Hubert de Givenchy through adaptations of his favorite flower, the orchid. Emphasizing the artisanal essence of the collection, hand-forged orchids are showcased in gradient enamel earrings, ear cuffs, and neck