GEORGES HOBEIKA ‘VAMPS’ READY-TO-WEAR FALL-WINTER 23/24
Inspired by a concept that is as visually arresting as it is socially relevant, the Maison Georges Hobeika Ready-to-Wear collection for Fall 2023 celebrates the division between night and day, and more particularly the dramatic creatures of the dusk. While the creative inspiration comes from the world of vampires, as seen in the cult series True Blood, the idea of a dichotomy between the accepted and the unaccepted, a fear of the unknown and a contrasting desire to belong are all part of this richly dramatic creative moment. The presentation film chooses as its backdrop a dark forest wrapped in haze, playing with our sense of fear and our need for sanctuary. Beneath the drama and beauty of the collection lie a powerful comment on the importance of mental health and of those – hospital workers, security staff – who are active during night hours to ensure that we are safe while we sleep.
Digging deep into the rich vocabulary of the vampire world, this collection marks a shift away from the usual upbeat references but remains true to the arresting intensity of the Maison Georges Hobeika style. Edgy details bring their sense of spectacle to nearly a hundred looks – including men’s silhouettes – for a captivating seasonal collection. Two dégradé colour schemes play with the changing shades of sunrise and sunset, with a warmer palette of reds, oranges and greens representing the early morning and more dramatic purples, blues and blacks for a crepuscular feel. The trademark Hobeika orchid is a key motif, along with tattoo illusion effects using the shapes of the moon and stars. The rich embroidery which is part of the house’s DNA plays with delicate flower detailing and a three-dimensional effect akin to a fantastical dragon skin.
While references are resolutely other-worldly, shapes and materials bring a sense of reality to ornate silhouettes, with playful bomber jackets and the omnipresence of denim – a first for the Maison – treated here as a base for embroidery and dramatic shapes. Sweeping dresses offer butterfly detailing at the neckline, and nude trompe-l’œil pieces add a sense of spectacle. Sparkle comes from chain detailing on garments as well as interlinked chain necklaces and belts, with glittering vampire fangs featured as earrings. These creatures of the night come and inhabit the day with the poise and panache that are quintessential to Maison Georges Hobeika.