“I ought to be all alone in the world. Just me, Steiner,

and no other living thing.

Myself, naked, high on a rock.

No storm, no snow, no banks, no money, no time, no breath.

Then, at least, I wouldn’t be afraid.”

So ends The Great Ecstasy of Woodcarver Steiner, Werner Herzog’s 1974 documentary, which served as the starting point for the Filippa K Autumn/Winter 2023 collection. The film follows Walter Steiner, a brooding and at times inscrutable ski jumper, as he attempts to break the world record for ski flying — ski jumping’s daredevil, long-distance sister. A feeling of solitude is one that defines the film, despite the throngs of locals who have turned up to watch Steiner achieve something unfathomable, or simply crash and burn. It seems that only when the ski jumper is in the air, traveling with poise and a singular focus, that he appears to be free.

It is this feeling of freedom, one that is rooted in the brand’s DNA, that is explored through the Filippa K Autumn/Winter 2023 collection. Amid the rigors of daily life and the unfolding anxieties of recent years, Creative Director Liisa Kessler zeroed in on Steiner’s own small moments of liberation. In the ski jumper’s unbending will and physique, his taut body a symbol of strength and a disavowal of fear, he offers a path through. “When the world feels heavy and complicated, I guess we want to be able to take off to a lighter state of mind,” explains Kessler. “We long for a feeling of being able to breathe and feel carefree again. And taking off, literally flying and escaping, feels so beautiful and fascinating to me.”

The singular lean figure of Steiner mid-air also serves as aesthetic inspiration for the collection, through looks that feature monochrome silhouettes that draw inspiration from 1970s ski jump suits. So too does the technical ski eyewear created for Autumn/Winter 2023, in collaboration with Swedish brand POC Sports, while gauzy merino knitwear and technical bonded jersey offer a tactile touch.

Crushed corduroy, raw denim and moleskin also feature prominently, as fabrics with a 1970s inflection are filtered through a minimalist 90s lens. This perspective is not limited to fabrics, outerwear takes inspiration from a traditional Swedish costume jacket that hails from the Dalarna region, rendered as a cropped vinyl shearling. Sustainable fake furs and fuzzy knits further add to a sense of warmth exhibited throughout.

The collection is balanced through its use of transparent layers, as airy, crushed fabrics and a glacial palette emphasizes lightness and movement. The season also sees the revival of waffle knit from the Filippa K archive, applied to a series of garments that reference classic ski underwear. Additionally, the brand has introduced a new seasonal handwritten monogram, inspired by vintage ski branding, which appears on select garments and accessories.

Leather boots, loafers and pumps feature snakeskin prints, as well as a pair of heeled lace-up sandals. The prints also appear on a structured shoulder bag and small cylindrical crossbody, alongside bags in black leather and nylon. Plush 1970s textures take form in the round faux fur Mysa bag, alongside scarves, hats and snoods in bouclé wool and chevron-structured alpaca.

The Autumn/Winter 2023 collection sees Filippa K continuing to reinterpret and revive the codes of the house. In particular, there is a focus on returning to the attitude that defined the brand’s 90s and early aughts campaigns.


— Filippa K’s longstanding commitment to sustainability is evident in the

collection’s responsibly certified, repurposed, and traceable materials.

— The cotton used in all heavy knitwear and the majority of jersey styles

is organic.

— Most denim styles are constructed from certified organic or recycled cotton,

with recycled thread and sustainable technology that reduces the amount of

water used in production by 95%.

— Wool cutting scraps from previous Filippa K productions have been sent for

recycling for years, and this season have been repurposed into a new fabric

for tailored outerwear styles.

— Filippa K is using new fiber for AW23: NaiaTM acetate is an FSC-certified

cellulosic material that is responsibly sourced from managed pine and

eucalyptus forests, fully transparent from tree to fiber. It is biodegradable

and compostable, and can be found in a series of crinkle-textured separates

in the collection.


Photographer: Timothy Schaumburg

Director: Gustav Stegfors, Giants

Director of

Photography: Anton Lilljegren

Location: Independent Studios, Stockholm

Stylist: Ondine Azoulay

Hair: Ramona Eschbach, Total World

Makeup: Georgina Graham, Management+Artists

Models: Ante Bergman, Sascha Rajasalu, Selma Paulsen,

Cosmo Caspers, Ebba Ryberg, Helena Mühlberger,

Lucia Clement, Chun Jin Weng, Yura Nakano

published by Nadia ten Hove