FILIPPA K PRESENTS AW/23 COLLECTION DURING PARIS FW
“I should be all alone in the world. Just me, Steiner, and no other living being. Myself, naked, high up on a rock. No storm, no snow, no banks, no money, no time, no breath. At least then I wouldn’t be afraid.”
The Great Ecstasy of Woodcarver Steiner
So ends ‘The Great Ecstasy of Woodcarver Steiner’, Werner Herzog’s 1974 documentary that served as the starting point for the Filippa K Autumn/Winter 2023 collection. The film follows Walter Steiner, a brooding and sometimes inscrutable ski jumper, as he attempts to break the ski flying world record – the daredevil sister of long-distance ski jumping. A sense of loneliness characterises the film, despite the crowds of locals who have turned up to watch Steiner achieve something unfathomable, or just crash and burn. Only when the ski jumper is in the air, poised and focused, does he seem to be free.
Feeling of freedom
It is that sense of freedom, rooted in the brand’s DNA, that is explored in the Filippa K Autumn/Winter 2023 collection. Amid the hardships of everyday life and the evolving anxieties of the past few years, creative director Liisa Kessler focused on Steiner’s own small moments of liberation. In the ski jumper’s unyielding will and physique, his taut body a symbol of strength and a rejection of fear, he offers a way through. “When the world feels heavy and complicated, I think we want to be able to ascend to a lighter state of mind,” Kessler explains. “We long for the feeling of being able to breathe again and feel carefree. And taking off, literally flying and escaping, feels so beautiful and fascinating to me.”
Steiner’s unique slender figure in the sky also serves as aesthetic inspiration for the collection, through looks with monochrome silhouettes inspired by ski jump suits from the 1970s. So do the technical ski goggles created for Autumn/Winter 2023 in collaboration with Swedish brand POC Sports, while airy merino knits and technical bonded jersey add a tactile touch.
Broken rib velvet, raw denim and moleskin are also prominent, as 1970s fabrics filter through a minimalist 1990s lens.
This perspective is not limited to fabrics: the outerwear is inspired by a traditional Swedish costume jacket from the Dalarna region, executed as a cropped vinyl jacket. Durable faux fur and fluffy knits further contribute to a sense of warmth. The collection is balanced by the use of transparent layers, while airy, crushed fabrics and a glassy palette emphasise lightness and movement.
The season also sees the revival of the waffle knit from the Filippa K archive, applied to a range of garments that reference classic ski underwear. In addition, the brand has introduced a new seasonal handwritten monogram, inspired by vintage ski brands and accessories.
Leather boots, loafers and pumps are printed with snakeskin, as are a pair of lace-up heeled shoes. The prints also appear on a structured shoulder bag and a small cylindrical crossbody, alongside bags made of black leather and nylon. Lush fabrics from the 1970s return in the round faux fur Mysa bag, alongside scarves, hats and hoods made of bouclé wool and chevron-textured alpaca.
Back to the 90s
In the autumn/winter 2023 collection, Filippa K continues to reinterpret and reinvigorate the house’s codes. In particular, there is a focus on returning to the attitude that defined the brand’s 1990s and early 1990s campaigns.