FENDI DEBUTES “FENDI TRIPTYCH” – A COLLECTION OF HIGH JEWELRY
On the occasion of the FENDI Couture Autumn/Winter 2023 in Paris, the House unveils FEND/ Triptych, the debut High Jewelry collection designed by FENDI Artistic Director of Jewelry Delfina Delettrez Fendi. FENDI Triptych celebrates a subtle majesty and feminine grace, fusing the rigour of Roman architecture with the eternal asymmetries, surprises and mirages of the natural world. Following the reveal of the FEND/ Flavus parure in July 2022, this comprehensive exploration of High Jewelry through the FENDI lens is a neoclassical exercise in graphic abstraction – transforming the calligraphic FF motif in a myriad of delicate expressions.
In three chapters entitled Roma Rosa, Gioiello Gia/lo, and Bianco Brillante, a chromatic journey unfolds as the brilliance of white diamonds is refracted in icy shades of pale pinks and yellows. Through meticulous stone research, the FENDI High Jewelry color palette is forged in powdery shades, creating a veritable countercurrent to classical jewelry traditions: one perfectly in line with House codes set down by the Fendi sisters and perpetuated by Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Venturini Fendi and Kim Jones. Their legacies are reflected in exceptional white and yellow diamonds, beautiful green, yellow, orange, green, pink and Padparadscha sapphires and spinels – all stringently chosen by Delfina Delettrez Fendi and the House gemmologist. Alongside reproducible designs, key creations from the collection featuring exceptional stones are one-of-a-kind pieces, never to be repeated.
Each unique creation within the FEND/ Triptych collection is imbued with historic elements from the FENDI lexicon: from trompe l’oeil FF motifs hidden in plain sight, to structures that unlock lightness, transparency and the kinetic motion of articulated gold. A play of sensuality and geometry in precious stone craftsmanship occurs throughout, as the rigor and structure of the rectangular baguette-cut – itself a nod to the iconic FENDI Baguette handbag – plays against the perfect circularity of the brilliant-cut stones. Constructed from combinations of baguette-cut stones, geometric FF motifs appear and disappear like mirages within necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings, echoing the cursive ‘Karligraphy’ motif created by Karl Lagerfeld in 1981 and immortalized by Delfina Delettrez Fendi as a discreet homage to her matriarchal family tree.
Harnessing a sense of exquisite weightlessness, FENDI Triptych subverts the codes of traditional jewelry construction to create new FENDI heirlooms. From articulated chain necklaces to the reinterpretation of a tennis bracelet, drop pendants, and cocktail rings, asymmetry and symmetry play together in conversation with gravity as stones are suspended and cascades of gold create jewels in constant movement. Tessellation, repetition, fusion and abstraction of the FF occur throughout, intertwined in 3D volumes of white, yellow and rose set, with beautiful gemstones. Just like the FENDI Peekaboo handbag, the idea of intimacy and hidden beauty remains key to these sensual and romantic designs, conceived not just to be seen by others, but to be appreciated by the wearer herself.
Photo credit: fendi.com