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Alexander McQueen takes over London skies for the latest show
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Alexander McQueen takes over London skies for the latest show

Fashion Week “I am interested in immersing myself in the environment in which we live and work, in London, and in the elements as we experience them each day. We moved from water – and the mud on the banks of the Thames – to the sky and the ever-changing, all-encompassing magnificence that represents. The artwork for the prints in this collection was shot from the rooftops of the studio where we are lucky enough to have the most incredible views of the city: from Saint Paul’s Cathedral to the London Eye. We watched the weather and captured the formation and colouration of clouds from daybreak to nightfall and documented changing patterns, from clear blue skies to more turbulent ones. That led me to storm chasing. I love the idea of the McQueen woman being a storm chaser, of the qualities of storm chasing uniting the passionately individual community of characters wearing the clothes. They inhabit the same universe and the clothes are inspired by and made for them. Storm chasing is not only about the beauty of the views but also a sense of mystery and excitement – about embracing the fact that we can’t ever be sure of what might happen next. To give up control and be directly in touch with the unpredictable is to be part of nature, to see and feel it at its most intense - to be at one with a world that is bigger and more powerful than we are.” - Sarah Burton, Creative Director       “I am interested in immersing myself in the environment in which we live and work, in London, and in the elements as we experience them each day. We moved from water – and the mud on the banks of the Thames – to the sky and the ever-changing, all-encompassing magnificence that represents. The artwork for the prints in this collection was shot from the rooftops of the studio where we are lucky enough to have the most incredible views of the city: from Saint Paul’s Cathedral to the London Eye. We watched the weather and captured the formation and colouration of clouds from daybreak to nightfall and documented changing patterns, from clear blue skies to more turbulent ones. That led me to storm chasing. I love the idea of the McQueen woman being a storm chaser, of the qualities of storm chasing uniting the passionately individual community of characters wearing the clothes. They inhabit the same universe and the clothes are inspired by and made for them. Storm chasing is not only about the beauty of the views but also a sense of mystery and excitement – about embracing the fact that we can’t ever be sure of what might happen next. To give up control and be directly in touch with the unpredictable is to be part of nature, to see and feel it at its most intense - to be at one with a world that is bigger and more powerful than we are.” - Sarah Burton, Creative Director      

Ninamounah launches The Fertile, the Spring Summer 2022 Collection
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Ninamounah launches The Fertile, the Spring Summer 2022 Collection

Fashion Week Ninamounah launches The Fertile, the Spring Summer 2022 Collection of the Amsterdam based brand, presented today at Paris Fashion Week. True to the vision of creative director Ninamounah Langestraat, the new proposal of the fashion house receives inspiration from the most instinctive natural senses that fuel the firm's unique personality.     Found throughout the collection in her most personal collection yet, Ninamounah features references to the natural world incorporating bodily visuals combined with fluid lines that aim to celebrate a sense of lust and fertility.     Defined by the flesh of each wearer, the garments adapt to the human shape molding V-shaped waistbands on flowy trousers and guiding the viewer's eyes towards the mons veneris using high cut body blouses, signature silhouette of the brand.     Following this very natural sensuality defined by the designer, other pieces drape and wrap fabrics to fabricate voluptuous impressions resulting in a compelling and appealing visual narrative.     Silk garments envelope the waist and strapped tops hold onto the neck and shoulders, featuring swirling slithery lines that take on a feminine spatiality. Tension is created between the flowing garments and the structurality given by leather belts wrapped around hips and limbs.      A butterfly, a symbol of fertility and transformation is a key element to the collection. It lands in the hair, circles around the hips as a belt, creates a glistening dress and various accessories. The influence of Dutch contemporary artist Kinke Kooi’s work is felt in the undulating folds and organic contiguity of strings of pearls in the butterfly dress, made of genuine butterflies and jade pearls.      The neutral colours of the collection, applied in leather and satin, are accompanied by a luscious green and a contrasting purple in laces and silky fabrics, as well as goopy prints revealing compositions of sexual indulgences.     The collection’s audiovisual piece is inspired by the Swedish midsummer, in which the phallic maypole is stuck in the ground to fertilise the dirt. The film is shot in a lush grass field, with models walking in a choreography that mimics the seasonal ritual. In the background plays Cherry Bomb by The Runaways. The fruit often refers to a person’s ‘virginity’. The punk-rock tune reinterprets the cherry and claims it as a symbol of lust and rock. Ninamounah takes a holistic approach to the social construct that is virginity. Ninamounah launches The Fertile, the Spring Summer 2022 Collection of the Amsterdam based brand, presented today at Paris Fashion Week. True to the vision of creative director Ninamounah Langestraat, the new proposal of the fashion house receives inspiration from the most instinctive natural senses that fuel the firm's unique personality.     Found throughout the collection in her most personal collection yet, Ninamounah features references to the natural world incorporating bodily visuals combined with fluid lines that aim to celebrate a sense of lust and fertility.     Defined by the flesh of each wearer, the garments adapt to the human shape molding V-shaped waistbands on flowy trousers and guiding the viewer's eyes towards the mons veneris using high cut body blouses, signature silhouette of the brand.     Following this very natural sensuality defined by the designer, other pieces drape and wrap fabrics to fabricate voluptuous impressions resulting in a compelling and appealing visual narrative.     Silk garments envelope the waist and strapped tops hold onto the neck and shoulders, featuring swirling slithery lines that take on a feminine spatiality. Tension is created between the flowing garments and the structurality given by leather belts wrapped around hips and limbs.      A butterfly, a symbol of fertility and transformation is a key element to the collection. It lands in the hair, circles around the hips as a belt, creates a glistening dress and various accessories. The influence of Dutch contemporary artist Kinke Kooi’s work is felt in the undulating folds and organic contiguity of strings of pearls in the butterfly dress, made of genuine butterflies and jade pearls.      The neutral colours of the collection, applied in leather and satin, are accompanied by a luscious green and a contrasting purple in laces and silky fabrics, as well as goopy prints revealing compositions of sexual indulgences.     The collection’s audiovisual piece is inspired by the Swedish midsummer, in which the phallic maypole is stuck in the ground to fertilise the dirt. The film is shot in a lush grass field, with models walking in a choreography that mimics the seasonal ritual. In the background plays Cherry Bomb by The Runaways. The fruit often refers to a person’s ‘virginity’. The punk-rock tune reinterprets the cherry and claims it as a symbol of lust and rock. Ninamounah takes a holistic approach to the social construct that is virginity.

CHANEL SPRING-SUMMER 2022 READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION
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CHANEL SPRING-SUMMER 2022 READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION

Fashion Week The model Vivienne Rohner taking a photo: this is the black and white portrait that appears on the invitation and in the decor for the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Ready-to-Wear show: “Because fashion is about clothes, models and photographers,” confides Virginie Viard. “Karl Lagerfeld used to photograph the CHANEL campaigns himself. Today, I call upon photographers. I love the way that they see CHANEL. It supports and inspires me.” The duo Inez & Vinoodh have signed the images for this collection, including five films featuring Lily-Rose Depp, Alma Jodorowsky, JENNIE, Rebecca Dayan and Quannah Chasinghorse-Potts all repeating the same gesture, a camera in hand. “It's a magical object and a sexy gesture, which evokes so many memories. I used to love the sound of flashbulbs going off at the shows in the eighties, when the models were on a raised runway. I wanted to recapture that emotion.” And recreate that type of runway at the Grand Palais Éphémère, a human-sized space whose atmosphere made her yearn for, “a lot of very simple bathing suits in gold or white with black trimmings. Short dresses in pink or mauve tweed, fishnet skirts, jackets embellished with multicolour crochet and denim suits. There are also a lot of prints: big, colourful butterfly wings on black chiffon.” Certain silhouettes are punctuated with a big shopper or a soft quilted bag embellished with a large chain. The flared heels and the buckles of the Mary-Janes and sandals “remind us of pirate shoes,” Virginie Viard says with amusement. “I always like to have something romantic. A touch of mystery.”       #CHANELSpringSummer The model Vivienne Rohner taking a photo: this is the black and white portrait that appears on the invitation and in the decor for the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Ready-to-Wear show: “Because fashion is about clothes, models and photographers,” confides Virginie Viard. “Karl Lagerfeld used to photograph the CHANEL campaigns himself. Today, I call upon photographers. I love the way that they see CHANEL. It supports and inspires me.” The duo Inez & Vinoodh have signed the images for this collection, including five films featuring Lily-Rose Depp, Alma Jodorowsky, JENNIE, Rebecca Dayan and Quannah Chasinghorse-Potts all repeating the same gesture, a camera in hand. “It's a magical object and a sexy gesture, which evokes so many memories. I used to love the sound of flashbulbs going off at the shows in the eighties, when the models were on a raised runway. I wanted to recapture that emotion.” And recreate that type of runway at the Grand Palais Éphémère, a human-sized space whose atmosphere made her yearn for, “a lot of very simple bathing suits in gold or white with black trimmings. Short dresses in pink or mauve tweed, fishnet skirts, jackets embellished with multicolour crochet and denim suits. There are also a lot of prints: big, colourful butterfly wings on black chiffon.” Certain silhouettes are punctuated with a big shopper or a soft quilted bag embellished with a large chain. The flared heels and the buckles of the Mary-Janes and sandals “remind us of pirate shoes,” Virginie Viard says with amusement. “I always like to have something romantic. A touch of mystery.”       #CHANELSpringSummer

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CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN PRESENTS LOUBILLUSIONS A PRESENTATION & COCKTAIL PARTY TO CELEBRATE THE DEBUT OF THE WOMEN’S SPRING-SUMMER 2022 COLLECTION
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CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN PRESENTS LOUBILLUSIONS A PRESENTATION & COCKTAIL PARTY TO CELEBRATE THE DEBUT OF THE WOMEN’S SPRING-SUMMER 2022 COLLECTION

Fashion Week Last week Christian Louboutin unveiled his Spring-Summer 2022 Women’s collection with Loubillusions a 360° immersive experience & event.     Having spent the last a few seasons exploring digital formats like Augmented Reality, 3D and the gaming platform Zepeto, Louboutin selected L’Atelier des Lumières, a one-of-a-kind venue dedicated to digital art exhibitions to debut his latest collection.     The over 3,000 square meter space, showcased a rotating series of original animations, encompassing guests in settings that explore seven of his key points of inspiration, from a zen Japanese garden to magnificent golden waterfalls and fresh summer water.     Guests discovered at Loubillusions Christian Louboutin’s newest creations including the highlights: his brand-new bag, the Carasky, inspired by his passion for gems and crowns and Our Angels, a genderless capsule collection including bags, and high-end shoes ranging sizes from 36 to 46.     The daytime exhibit was followed by celebratory cocktail party in the space later that same evening.         Last week Christian Louboutin unveiled his Spring-Summer 2022 Women’s collection with Loubillusions a 360° immersive experience & event.     Having spent the last a few seasons exploring digital formats like Augmented Reality, 3D and the gaming platform Zepeto, Louboutin selected L’Atelier des Lumières, a one-of-a-kind venue dedicated to digital art exhibitions to debut his latest collection.     The over 3,000 square meter space, showcased a rotating series of original animations, encompassing guests in settings that explore seven of his key points of inspiration, from a zen Japanese garden to magnificent golden waterfalls and fresh summer water.     Guests discovered at Loubillusions Christian Louboutin’s newest creations including the highlights: his brand-new bag, the Carasky, inspired by his passion for gems and crowns and Our Angels, a genderless capsule collection including bags, and high-end shoes ranging sizes from 36 to 46.     The daytime exhibit was followed by celebratory cocktail party in the space later that same evening.        

BALENCIAGA PRESENTS SUMMER 2022 RED CARPET
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BALENCIAGA PRESENTS SUMMER 2022 RED CARPET

Fashion Week Balenciaga’s Summer 22 presentation consists of two parts: a photocall on a Hollywood-style red carpet, and a movie premiere. Guests wearing the new collection pause on the walkway before being ushered into a theater screening the short film The Simpsons I Balenciaga.     The Simpsons for Balenciaga is the latest in a progression of activations that push certain boundaries set up between fashion and other forms of entertainment, culture, and technology, shifting the brand away from an easily definable category.     A cast consisting of Balenciaga’s friends, models and team members wearing the Summer 22 collection are part of an automatic performance wherein the premiere event becomes the show itself. Red-carpet arrivals are documented, setting up a series of role reversals like in The Simpsons I Balenciaga where the audience becomes the protagonists and vice-versa.     The collection represents the complete Balenciaga palette: a wardrobe of streetwear, daywear, tailoring, elegant eveningwear and proto-couture pieces. Silhouettes vary from ultra-slim to disproportionately oversized.     A commitment to responsible production continues, represented this season with upcycled denim, leather, fine textiles, and embroidery, as well as material innovation: plant-based leather is made from a mix of fibers derived from cactus and bio polymers. 95.2% of plain and printed fabrics in the collection are certified sustainable.     The collection includes several accessory debuts and updates. The Space Shoe is a highly innovative single mold alternative to the classic derby, made entirely of EVA material. Loafers made of soft calf become slipper-like, accentuating the notion of comfort in a classic men’s shoe.     Part of an ongoing collaboration with Crocs, Hard Crocs turn the soft clog into a metal-fortified platform with a cyber goth aesthetic. The Defender is a new super- chunky sneaker with extreme tire tread. Trompe l’œil boots mimic a stiletto sandal worn over a sock. The Cagole Boot is a footwear version of the classic studded bag made in arena leather.     The XX Bag reinterprets the Hourglass silhouette by filling its negative space and creating a new form. The Triplet Bag is an interpretation of a classic chain purse, made with three separate compartments. Looks are completed with new eyewear, accessory, and jewelry styles. Balenciaga’s Summer 22 presentation consists of two parts: a photocall on a Hollywood-style red carpet, and a movie premiere. Guests wearing the new collection pause on the walkway before being ushered into a theater screening the short film The Simpsons I Balenciaga.     The Simpsons for Balenciaga is the latest in a progression of activations that push certain boundaries set up between fashion and other forms of entertainment, culture, and technology, shifting the brand away from an easily definable category.     A cast consisting of Balenciaga’s friends, models and team members wearing the Summer 22 collection are part of an automatic performance wherein the premiere event becomes the show itself. Red-carpet arrivals are documented, setting up a series of role reversals like in The Simpsons I Balenciaga where the audience becomes the protagonists and vice-versa.     The collection represents the complete Balenciaga palette: a wardrobe of streetwear, daywear, tailoring, elegant eveningwear and proto-couture pieces. Silhouettes vary from ultra-slim to disproportionately oversized.     A commitment to responsible production continues, represented this season with upcycled denim, leather, fine textiles, and embroidery, as well as material innovation: plant-based leather is made from a mix of fibers derived from cactus and bio polymers. 95.2% of plain and printed fabrics in the collection are certified sustainable.     The collection includes several accessory debuts and updates. The Space Shoe is a highly innovative single mold alternative to the classic derby, made entirely of EVA material. Loafers made of soft calf become slipper-like, accentuating the notion of comfort in a classic men’s shoe.     Part of an ongoing collaboration with Crocs, Hard Crocs turn the soft clog into a metal-fortified platform with a cyber goth aesthetic. The Defender is a new super- chunky sneaker with extreme tire tread. Trompe l’œil boots mimic a stiletto sandal worn over a sock. The Cagole Boot is a footwear version of the classic studded bag made in arena leather.     The XX Bag reinterprets the Hourglass silhouette by filling its negative space and creating a new form. The Triplet Bag is an interpretation of a classic chain purse, made with three separate compartments. Looks are completed with new eyewear, accessory, and jewelry styles.

GIVENCHY PRESENTS THE NEW SPRING & SUMMER 2022 COLLECTION
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GIVENCHY PRESENTS THE NEW SPRING & SUMMER 2022 COLLECTION

Fashion Week "For the Spring-Summer 22 collection, I wanted to build on the tradition of Givenchy's history while also really looking towards the future. To do this, I worked with people I admire across different disciplines who have truly unique perspectives including the artist Josh Smith, whose iconic work is incorporated throughout the collection, and the musician Young Thug, who created the entire score for the show. The collaboration and this collection offer people a remarkably immersive and special experience." Matthew M. Williams, Creative Director, Givenchy     In Matthew M. Williams’ Givenchy, there is a mix of luxury and utility, lavishness and austerity, together with imperfect beauty and humanity. It points to the distinctly emotional side of the business of luxury and fashion that is sometimes forgotten in its confines; something that Williams is keen for all to partake in, particularly in this first live show experience.     Bridging the classical, radical and practical, the silhouettes for both women and men explore the tension between extravagance and discipline, tradition and today. Material experimentation and construction of the silhouette is combined with an intense contrast in clothing that could only be achieved and exist now. At the same time, the collection embraces tradition, the techniques of the salon and timelessness, proving that these distinct elements are not mutually exclusive. As always, at Givenchy, both classicism and subversion play a part.     A stratification of eras and influences is found in the clothing, purposely layered and juxtaposed in looks: traditional masculine tailoring fabrics are featured in women’s and menswear, mohair wools, Napa leathers, cotton herringbones and Prince of Wales checks are bonded with neoprene and sculpted in form, applied to both corsets and peplums – drawn from Monsieur de Givenchy’s archive – together with shorts and minis, as well as more conventional suiting. Raw edges are cleanly sliced and embraced, adding a sense of modernity throughout; delicate Broderie Anglaise is contrasted and exposed, bound in as trim, while tulle and transparencies add lightness, freshness and airy appositions; the urbane savoir-faire of the house and the homespun simplicity of handcraft are brought together in intricate tooling and ‘basket woven’leatherwork, with macramé and raffia techniques for both clothing and bags. "For the Spring-Summer 22 collection, I wanted to build on the tradition of Givenchy's history while also really looking towards the future. To do this, I worked with people I admire across different disciplines who have truly unique perspectives including the artist Josh Smith, whose iconic work is incorporated throughout the collection, and the musician Young Thug, who created the entire score for the show. The collaboration and this collection offer people a remarkably immersive and special experience." Matthew M. Williams, Creative Director, Givenchy     In Matthew M. Williams’ Givenchy, there is a mix of luxury and utility, lavishness and austerity, together with imperfect beauty and humanity. It points to the distinctly emotional side of the business of luxury and fashion that is sometimes forgotten in its confines; something that Williams is keen for all to partake in, particularly in this first live show experience.     Bridging the classical, radical and practical, the silhouettes for both women and men explore the tension between extravagance and discipline, tradition and today. Material experimentation and construction of the silhouette is combined with an intense contrast in clothing that could only be achieved and exist now. At the same time, the collection embraces tradition, the techniques of the salon and timelessness, proving that these distinct elements are not mutually exclusive. As always, at Givenchy, both classicism and subversion play a part.     A stratification of eras and influences is found in the clothing, purposely layered and juxtaposed in looks: traditional masculine tailoring fabrics are featured in women’s and menswear, mohair wools, Napa leathers, cotton herringbones and Prince of Wales checks are bonded with neoprene and sculpted in form, applied to both corsets and peplums – drawn from Monsieur de Givenchy’s archive – together with shorts and minis, as well as more conventional suiting. Raw edges are cleanly sliced and embraced, adding a sense of modernity throughout; delicate Broderie Anglaise is contrasted and exposed, bound in as trim, while tulle and transparencies add lightness, freshness and airy appositions; the urbane savoir-faire of the house and the homespun simplicity of handcraft are brought together in intricate tooling and ‘basket woven’leatherwork, with macramé and raffia techniques for both clothing and bags.

LOEWE WOMEN’S SPRING SUMMER 2022
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LOEWE WOMEN’S SPRING SUMMER 2022

Fashion Week "Neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical". The LOEWE Spring Summer 2022 collection is an experimental statement that marks a point of departure, and opens a new chapter. Provocation, sensuality, movement and amusement break up the LOEWE mould. In devising a vision rooted in the moment, creative director Jonathan Anderson looks at the mannerist, hysterical world of Renaissance painter Pontormo, exploring notions of draping, sculpting and colour by way of torsions, diversions and distortions. The new beginning becomes a renaissance of sorts.     The line is vertical. The body is twisted, turned, contorted. Long dresses protrude in unexpected places, metal plates are integrated into coats and dresses, drawing an altered body, augmenting the reality of dressing into another dimension. Capes like wings de ne erotic manga characters, while draped elements hang, fall, turn all over. Denim, too, is treated in sculptural ways, while sequins and ounces are a moment of shimmer and utter. Long dresses emanate from torsos cast in resin. Reduction is the byword: silhouettes are divided in chapters, building up moments that add nuance to a vision of the now.     Dresses with 3D metal wire elements underneath. Trench coats. Draped tops, dresses and leggings. Giant trousers and blousons; twisted denim jackets and skirts. Sequin slip dresses with ounces. Sequin miniskirts and jumpers. Elongated sleeves and culottes. Revealing holes and slits.     Pumps and sandals have ready-made heels - soap bars, candles, eggs, a nail polish, a rose - as to suggest fragility and spontaneity. The Flow runner comes in a compostable plastic version that reveals the feet. Soft teddy bear fabric boots fall loosely around the ankle. Bags include a draped Goya long clutch and the Flamenco in teddy bear fabric. The curvaceous LOEWE Luna bag comes in smooth leather and in Anagram jacquard. The Hammock Nugget in nappa calf adds new proportions to an enduring LOEWE style. Colourful sterling silver bracelets decorate the wrist.     New archetypes are de ned. A collection that asks to be seen owing in movement, as experimentation unfolds on living bodies in a real space.     #LOEWE #LOEWESS22 "Neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical". The LOEWE Spring Summer 2022 collection is an experimental statement that marks a point of departure, and opens a new chapter. Provocation, sensuality, movement and amusement break up the LOEWE mould. In devising a vision rooted in the moment, creative director Jonathan Anderson looks at the mannerist, hysterical world of Renaissance painter Pontormo, exploring notions of draping, sculpting and colour by way of torsions, diversions and distortions. The new beginning becomes a renaissance of sorts.     The line is vertical. The body is twisted, turned, contorted. Long dresses protrude in unexpected places, metal plates are integrated into coats and dresses, drawing an altered body, augmenting the reality of dressing into another dimension. Capes like wings de ne erotic manga characters, while draped elements hang, fall, turn all over. Denim, too, is treated in sculptural ways, while sequins and ounces are a moment of shimmer and utter. Long dresses emanate from torsos cast in resin. Reduction is the byword: silhouettes are divided in chapters, building up moments that add nuance to a vision of the now.     Dresses with 3D metal wire elements underneath. Trench coats. Draped tops, dresses and leggings. Giant trousers and blousons; twisted denim jackets and skirts. Sequin slip dresses with ounces. Sequin miniskirts and jumpers. Elongated sleeves and culottes. Revealing holes and slits.     Pumps and sandals have ready-made heels - soap bars, candles, eggs, a nail polish, a rose - as to suggest fragility and spontaneity. The Flow runner comes in a compostable plastic version that reveals the feet. Soft teddy bear fabric boots fall loosely around the ankle. Bags include a draped Goya long clutch and the Flamenco in teddy bear fabric. The curvaceous LOEWE Luna bag comes in smooth leather and in Anagram jacquard. The Hammock Nugget in nappa calf adds new proportions to an enduring LOEWE style. Colourful sterling silver bracelets decorate the wrist.     New archetypes are de ned. A collection that asks to be seen owing in movement, as experimentation unfolds on living bodies in a real space.     #LOEWE #LOEWESS22

Acne Studios presents the Women’s Spring & Summer 2022 collection
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Acne Studios presents the Women’s Spring & Summer 2022 collection

Fashion Week The clash of handcrafted historical pieces with a hyper futuristic attitude. A collection about self-identity and instinct, an experimentation that has always been the heart of Acne Studios.     “We live in the age of self-identity, of instinct and experimentation. The look is provocative and hard, yet is grounded in handcrafts that are then subverted,” says Jonny Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios.     Finding strength in contrast, there are four main themes: chi on matched with leather; plaid contrasted with lingerie; crochet and knits that are toughened up; handcrafted corsets that are exploded and unleashed. It’s about a juxtaposition of grandeur with erce energy, and the possibilities of play.     Chi on shirts have an etched baroque print, held by ties at the neck and chest, and trailing from the oversized cu . Aged leather button-fronted mini skirts have buckled belts attached, like the straps of a saddle. A high-necked long sleeve short leather dress is patchworked from purposefully irregular rectangles, with corset lacing that holds an open seam from armhole to hem. Just as strong is a full lengthprinted chi on dress, its keyhole decolletage held by ties.     Panels of plaid are applied to a mesh base to create a little jacket with jewelled buttons, worn with a soft jersey rib skirt that plays with lingerie detailing, like hook and eye fastenings and suspenders. Sheer jersey socks continue the story, with corset lacing that goes all the way to the knee. A tank top is cut from a plaidshirt, matched with a rib knit shrug and white leather pants patchworked from a blown-up baroque pattern.     A white o -the-shoulder jumpsuit is knitted in a diamond crochet stitch, the elegance of the necklinecontrasting with the purposeful irregularity of its seams that are whip-stitched together. Silhouettes are subverted, like a portrait neckline cropped jacket in eyelash stitch worn with a little eyelash stitch skirt,while a hand-crocheted little vest is resplendent with crochet owers, echoing the hand-crocheted bags.     Traditionally handmade corsets are cut up and reappropriated, released from constriction but keeping their strength of line. A corset top has attached sleeves, worn with a skirt constructed as if from a corset turned upside down and inside out. A sheer wrapped dress sits under a corset that’s upside down, giving freedomof movement, while an open corset is stitched into a dress fringed with beaded orals, its squared hipscreated from the pattern lines of a bodice.     Jewellery chains, necklaces and charms are as if thrown on, while small leather half-moon bags have wide guitar-like straps. Sunglasses are futuristic, mirroring the ergonomic lines of super high wooden platforms.     The Venezuelan artist Arca has created an original composition for the show, SMOKEBENDING, to capture the sense of performance and occasion. “Arca represents everything this collection is about,” says Johansson, “and it is our honour that she created music especially for this show.” The clash of handcrafted historical pieces with a hyper futuristic attitude. A collection about self-identity and instinct, an experimentation that has always been the heart of Acne Studios.     “We live in the age of self-identity, of instinct and experimentation. The look is provocative and hard, yet is grounded in handcrafts that are then subverted,” says Jonny Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios.     Finding strength in contrast, there are four main themes: chi on matched with leather; plaid contrasted with lingerie; crochet and knits that are toughened up; handcrafted corsets that are exploded and unleashed. It’s about a juxtaposition of grandeur with erce energy, and the possibilities of play.     Chi on shirts have an etched baroque print, held by ties at the neck and chest, and trailing from the oversized cu . Aged leather button-fronted mini skirts have buckled belts attached, like the straps of a saddle. A high-necked long sleeve short leather dress is patchworked from purposefully irregular rectangles, with corset lacing that holds an open seam from armhole to hem. Just as strong is a full lengthprinted chi on dress, its keyhole decolletage held by ties.     Panels of plaid are applied to a mesh base to create a little jacket with jewelled buttons, worn with a soft jersey rib skirt that plays with lingerie detailing, like hook and eye fastenings and suspenders. Sheer jersey socks continue the story, with corset lacing that goes all the way to the knee. A tank top is cut from a plaidshirt, matched with a rib knit shrug and white leather pants patchworked from a blown-up baroque pattern.     A white o -the-shoulder jumpsuit is knitted in a diamond crochet stitch, the elegance of the necklinecontrasting with the purposeful irregularity of its seams that are whip-stitched together. Silhouettes are subverted, like a portrait neckline cropped jacket in eyelash stitch worn with a little eyelash stitch skirt,while a hand-crocheted little vest is resplendent with crochet owers, echoing the hand-crocheted bags.     Traditionally handmade corsets are cut up and reappropriated, released from constriction but keeping their strength of line. A corset top has attached sleeves, worn with a skirt constructed as if from a corset turned upside down and inside out. A sheer wrapped dress sits under a corset that’s upside down, giving freedomof movement, while an open corset is stitched into a dress fringed with beaded orals, its squared hipscreated from the pattern lines of a bodice.     Jewellery chains, necklaces and charms are as if thrown on, while small leather half-moon bags have wide guitar-like straps. Sunglasses are futuristic, mirroring the ergonomic lines of super high wooden platforms.     The Venezuelan artist Arca has created an original composition for the show, SMOKEBENDING, to capture the sense of performance and occasion. “Arca represents everything this collection is about,” says Johansson, “and it is our honour that she created music especially for this show.”

GCDS PRESENTS SPRING & SUMMER 2022 COLLECTION  “ISLAND APPROPRIATE”
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GCDS PRESENTS SPRING & SUMMER 2022 COLLECTION “ISLAND APPROPRIATE”

Fashion Week With a modern runway fashion film, GCDS Reveals its Spring/Summer 2022 Collection directed by Giuliano Calza     “Close to Positano, there are age-old myths of mermaids and underwater garden worlds. These fables from Southern Italy have influenced my imagination over the years — the Neapolitan sea is, no doubt, a place of endless inspiration. With this collection, I’m letting you dive into the dream with me—and splicing it with a high fashion fantasy,” says Giuliano Calza, Creative Director of GCDS.     As Calza’s fashion journey continues to evolve, the designer has found himself on a proverbial island in the sun, shining with surreal brilliance far beyond the horizon. In this paradise, there’s an element of escapism, and the freedom one might find in getting away from the turmoil of the past eighteen months. Throughout this nautical frontier, Calza’s favorite fashion fixations have become the stylings of a water-world fairytale. They revel in both relaxation and hedonism; they’re a prologue to a bright new future.      GCDS’s aquatic adventure starts with draped, rewashed deadstock denim, accentuated by straw hats and sparkling stone chains (the collection features hundreds of thousands of Preciosa crystals). A diaphanous and sexy visual element starts to come into play, while wave-motif blazers, swimwear and new Ibex clogs—made of recycled and compostable materials—follow the swell. Throughout the lineup, there’s a Made in Italy imprimatur of high-quality knitwear, including elongated (and sometimes beaded) tassels on blazers, sweaters and skirts, featherlight robes, crochet dresses, and labor intensive macramé vests. Embellished denim (springing in inspiration from GCDS’s original choker necklaces) and bedazzled jumpsuits only fuel the dream-state. The finale sees crystal-studded liquid body suits, which seem to imagine the gloss of a future mermaid’s skin. Nothing is overcomplicated or extra-elaborate, however; eclectic ease is central to GCDS’s summery sentiment. Also, worth noting: GCDS introduces its newest footwear designs this season, such as the above-mentioned slip-on clogs, the new everyday “Nami” sneaker and the street-strutting “Rider” pumps. The same goes for handbags: See the new “Matilda” small bags.     To present Spring/Summer 2022—the first collection shown since GCDS sold a majority stake position to the Made in Italy Fund—Calza conceived and directed a short fantasy film. After the success of the Fall/Winter 2021 digital catwalk (which amounted over 1.5 million views), this season marks step two in demonstrating Calza’s fantastical imagination.      The film tracks the collection through the oft unusual monotony of day-to-day life, extending across a barren desert. It concludes, however, with the discovery of a new paradise. Against an imaginative aquarium, a symbol of this brave and bright new future, anthropomorphic crossover is possible and mythic beauty suddenly becomes real.      “When it comes to creativity, I begin everything from a place of deep resonance,” says Calza. “I take these cues and emotions and power them by seeing optimism and brightness at the end of the tunnel. Living life is all about growth and getting through the tough parts, so, this collection and this film are a representation of that. Of hitting a point of liberty and ecstasy.”     This season, Calza sought to infuse his creative expression with an explosion of Spanish energy. The film was lensed in Spain, and such talents as Sita Abellan feature prominently. Others in the cast include Maggie Rawlins, Isabeli Fontana, Raya Martigny, Ceval Omar and Diego Villareal. There’s also a cameo by Nathy Peluso, the Barcelona-based singer and songwriter. The short was scored by the composer Katoo in partnership with Calza.     The GCDS Spring/Summer 2022 collection’s most notable collaboration is with One Piece, the Japanese animated series produced by Toei Animation in 1999 scheduled to debut its 1000th episode this fall. The iconic series is an adaptation from the eponymous manga created in 1997 by Eiichiro Oda. GCDS draws influence from One Piece’s under-the-sea drawings, with graphic motifs (including the fusion with GCDS’ own Bunny Girl character) appearing on bowling shirts, cargo sweats and jersey knits. One Piece’s “Jolly Roger” icon also finds itself in knitted form embellished by sparkling crystals.  With a modern runway fashion film, GCDS Reveals its Spring/Summer 2022 Collection directed by Giuliano Calza     “Close to Positano, there are age-old myths of mermaids and underwater garden worlds. These fables from Southern Italy have influenced my imagination over the years — the Neapolitan sea is, no doubt, a place of endless inspiration. With this collection, I’m letting you dive into the dream with me—and splicing it with a high fashion fantasy,” says Giuliano Calza, Creative Director of GCDS.     As Calza’s fashion journey continues to evolve, the designer has found himself on a proverbial island in the sun, shining with surreal brilliance far beyond the horizon. In this paradise, there’s an element of escapism, and the freedom one might find in getting away from the turmoil of the past eighteen months. Throughout this nautical frontier, Calza’s favorite fashion fixations have become the stylings of a water-world fairytale. They revel in both relaxation and hedonism; they’re a prologue to a bright new future.      GCDS’s aquatic adventure starts with draped, rewashed deadstock denim, accentuated by straw hats and sparkling stone chains (the collection features hundreds of thousands of Preciosa crystals). A diaphanous and sexy visual element starts to come into play, while wave-motif blazers, swimwear and new Ibex clogs—made of recycled and compostable materials—follow the swell. Throughout the lineup, there’s a Made in Italy imprimatur of high-quality knitwear, including elongated (and sometimes beaded) tassels on blazers, sweaters and skirts, featherlight robes, crochet dresses, and labor intensive macramé vests. Embellished denim (springing in inspiration from GCDS’s original choker necklaces) and bedazzled jumpsuits only fuel the dream-state. The finale sees crystal-studded liquid body suits, which seem to imagine the gloss of a future mermaid’s skin. Nothing is overcomplicated or extra-elaborate, however; eclectic ease is central to GCDS’s summery sentiment. Also, worth noting: GCDS introduces its newest footwear designs this season, such as the above-mentioned slip-on clogs, the new everyday “Nami” sneaker and the street-strutting “Rider” pumps. The same goes for handbags: See the new “Matilda” small bags.     To present Spring/Summer 2022—the first collection shown since GCDS sold a majority stake position to the Made in Italy Fund—Calza conceived and directed a short fantasy film. After the success of the Fall/Winter 2021 digital catwalk (which amounted over 1.5 million views), this season marks step two in demonstrating Calza’s fantastical imagination.      The film tracks the collection through the oft unusual monotony of day-to-day life, extending across a barren desert. It concludes, however, with the discovery of a new paradise. Against an imaginative aquarium, a symbol of this brave and bright new future, anthropomorphic crossover is possible and mythic beauty suddenly becomes real.      “When it comes to creativity, I begin everything from a place of deep resonance,” says Calza. “I take these cues and emotions and power them by seeing optimism and brightness at the end of the tunnel. Living life is all about growth and getting through the tough parts, so, this collection and this film are a representation of that. Of hitting a point of liberty and ecstasy.”     This season, Calza sought to infuse his creative expression with an explosion of Spanish energy. The film was lensed in Spain, and such talents as Sita Abellan feature prominently. Others in the cast include Maggie Rawlins, Isabeli Fontana, Raya Martigny, Ceval Omar and Diego Villareal. There’s also a cameo by Nathy Peluso, the Barcelona-based singer and songwriter. The short was scored by the composer Katoo in partnership with Calza.     The GCDS Spring/Summer 2022 collection’s most notable collaboration is with One Piece, the Japanese animated series produced by Toei Animation in 1999 scheduled to debut its 1000th episode this fall. The iconic series is an adaptation from the eponymous manga created in 1997 by Eiichiro Oda. GCDS draws influence from One Piece’s under-the-sea drawings, with graphic motifs (including the fusion with GCDS’ own Bunny Girl character) appearing on bowling shirts, cargo sweats and jersey knits. One Piece’s “Jolly Roger” icon also finds itself in knitted form embellished by sparkling crystals. 

VERSACE by FENDI – FENDI by VERSACE
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VERSACE by FENDI – FENDI by VERSACE

Fashion Week Friends, idols, mentors… It’s the beauty of togetherness. Kim Jones, Artistic Director Fendi Couture and Womenswear     It’s a first in the history of fashion: two designers having a true creative dialogue that stems from respect and friendship. It led to us swapping roles to create these two collections. Donatella Versace, Chief Creative Officer Versace       This is not a collaboration… The coming together of Fendi and Versace, two iconic fashion houses, or more rightly, two iconoclastic groups of people, has led to this unique moment in fashion. Both a celebration of Italian fashion and a to-hell-with-it disruption of the established order of things, Fendace is Fashion with a capital F – and a capital V. Together they stand for Freedom, Fun and Virtuosity.     Crossing the ‘party lines’ of luxury conglomerates – inspired purely by friendship and mutual professional respect – the double signature of Fendace is a swap, with roles exchanged. For the first time, Donatella Versace and Silvia Venturini Fendi have stepped away from their respective family houses to be inspired by the other’s vision, while Kim Jones – by now an old hand at inhabiting and reinventing other peoples’ houses – points the way.     Here, Jones and Venturini-Fendi take on the design of women’s and menswear respectively, displaying their exceptional vision of Versace while Versace takes on the design of all, displaying her inimitable interpretation of Fendi. With the archives fully opened to both, a unique cross-fertilisation occurs, with elements transposed from each house; at heart remains a deep admiration for the codes and cultures of both, together with a mutual encouragement for the designers to be themselves. Needless to say, the results could only be achieved with fundamental respect and reciprocal trust. Ultimately, Fendace is about the need for sincerity in fashion today rather than strategy.     Inspired by the mid-to-late nineties period of the storied house, VERSACE BY FENDI explores an idea of duality, most pointedly seen in a melding of the Fendi Monogram with the Versace Greek Key motif. Here, garments metamorphose, many revealed to be reversible with hidden codes and the exquisite craftsmanship of the Fendi atelier on display, such as in chainmail made leather. Here a multigenerational approach is embraced throughout. FENDI BY VERSACE takes a more punk rock stance with Donatella Versace declaring contamination and disruption to be key. Versace safety pins proliferate, puncturing Fendi signs and symbols. Chain mail is married with lace and crystal-encrusted F’s in an interpretation of the Monogram. While silk faille mimics denim and shearlings are shaved, making the world of Fendi that little bit more youthfully rebellious.     The following shows are dedicated to Kip Sims, a dear friend and colleague of Kim Jones and the house of Fendi. Our thoughts and love are with his family today. Friends, idols, mentors… It’s the beauty of togetherness. Kim Jones, Artistic Director Fendi Couture and Womenswear     It’s a first in the history of fashion: two designers having a true creative dialogue that stems from respect and friendship. It led to us swapping roles to create these two collections. Donatella Versace, Chief Creative Officer Versace       This is not a collaboration… The coming together of Fendi and Versace, two iconic fashion houses, or more rightly, two iconoclastic groups of people, has led to this unique moment in fashion. Both a celebration of Italian fashion and a to-hell-with-it disruption of the established order of things, Fendace is Fashion with a capital F – and a capital V. Together they stand for Freedom, Fun and Virtuosity.     Crossing the ‘party lines’ of luxury conglomerates – inspired purely by friendship and mutual professional respect – the double signature of Fendace is a swap, with roles exchanged. For the first time, Donatella Versace and Silvia Venturini Fendi have stepped away from their respective family houses to be inspired by the other’s vision, while Kim Jones – by now an old hand at inhabiting and reinventing other peoples’ houses – points the way.     Here, Jones and Venturini-Fendi take on the design of women’s and menswear respectively, displaying their exceptional vision of Versace while Versace takes on the design of all, displaying her inimitable interpretation of Fendi. With the archives fully opened to both, a unique cross-fertilisation occurs, with elements transposed from each house; at heart remains a deep admiration for the codes and cultures of both, together with a mutual encouragement for the designers to be themselves. Needless to say, the results could only be achieved with fundamental respect and reciprocal trust. Ultimately, Fendace is about the need for sincerity in fashion today rather than strategy.     Inspired by the mid-to-late nineties period of the storied house, VERSACE BY FENDI explores an idea of duality, most pointedly seen in a melding of the Fendi Monogram with the Versace Greek Key motif. Here, garments metamorphose, many revealed to be reversible with hidden codes and the exquisite craftsmanship of the Fendi atelier on display, such as in chainmail made leather. Here a multigenerational approach is embraced throughout. FENDI BY VERSACE takes a more punk rock stance with Donatella Versace declaring contamination and disruption to be key. Versace safety pins proliferate, puncturing Fendi signs and symbols. Chain mail is married with lace and crystal-encrusted F’s in an interpretation of the Monogram. While silk faille mimics denim and shearlings are shaved, making the world of Fendi that little bit more youthfully rebellious.     The following shows are dedicated to Kip Sims, a dear friend and colleague of Kim Jones and the house of Fendi. Our thoughts and love are with his family today.

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