EXPLORING TOMORROW’S FASHION: THROWBACK INTO THE FHCM SPHERE PARIS FASHION WEEK® SHOWROOM
words by Marie-Pauline Cesari @itsjustmp
Since January 2020, the FHCM has been hosting the Sphere Paris Fashion Week® Showroom with the support of LE DEFI and L’Oréal Paris. This showroom provides a platform for emerging young designers to showcase their brands and be featured in the official calendar.
Selected for their audacious creativity and vision, these designers are none other than the designers of tomorrow, the architects of future fashion. Let's delve into the men's session of this showroom, which took place between Wednesday 21 and Sunday 25 June, for the Spring/Summer 2024 season.
Captured by Gosia Turczyńska and styled by Gaultier Desandre Navarre, this fashion editorial embodies the boldness of the seven upcoming brands introduced by the showroom, seized on the sunlit forecourt of the Palais de Tokyo.
Arturo Obegero is already a master at crafting daring silhouettes that merge sharp shoulders with geometric structures, drawing inspiration from the world of dance. Having graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2018, he launched his eponymous brand after a year’s experience working in the workshops of the House of Lanvin.
Sensual and structured, Christoph Rumpf’s eponymous brand strikes a harmonious balance between contemporary style and the classic men’s and women’s wardrobes. His passion for antique fabrics is mirrored in his collection, echoing his admiration as well for John Galliano through his skillful play with colors and layers.
Vincent Frederic-Colombo is a multi-talented artist. From designing clothes to artistic direction, styling, and even DJing, he resonates with the inclusive collective LA CREOLE, dedicated to the diffusion of miscegenation cultures. In 2022, he took a step further in celebrating Creole culture by launching the brand C.R.E.O.L.E, for challenging gender identities and constructing a narrative that moves beyond exoticism. This brand serves as a beautiful manifesto honoring the rich heritage of the Créole community.
Jeanne Friot embodies one of the emerging female voices, shaping the fashion of tomorrow. She presents collections that blend ethics and a genderless approach. Introduced in 2020, her eponymous brand offers limited series of garments, created from upcycled fabrics. With its bold and vibrant style, Jeanne’s vision stands as a testament to her promise as a designer and her commitment to inclusivity.
LAGOS SPACE PROGRAMME
Lagos Space Programme stands as Adeju Thompson’s crowning achievement, a true gem amidst the rough. More than a brand, it encapsulates an artistic concept that celebrates both slow fashion and the ancestral wisdom of Lagos, Africa. Through its genderless collection with premium fabrics, Adeju offers innovative interpretations of African culture, championing the cause of fair and respectful slow fashion practices. The garments are meticulously crafted in local ateliers, where artisans are justly compensated, the Lagos Space Programme highlights the ancestral work of Beninese craftsmanship and artisanal techniques such as natural organic indigo dyeing. As a testament to its excellence, the brand won the International Woolmark Prize in May 2023.
Alex Po and Derek Cheng are the designer duo to follow at the moment. After studying at London’s Central Saint Martins, they founded the label Ponder.er together in 2019. By working with pleats, knitwear and smocks, their stunning designs are a manifesto of their fight to deconstruct social and gender norms. Their clothes invite wearers to experiment and question their own identity. In June 2022, they were awarded with the Yu Prize.
Valette Studio, a label launched by Pierre-François Valette in 2020, emerges as a testament to innovative design. The young designer revisits the codes of tailoring, while embracing an eco-responsible approach by working with deadstocks and on-demand production. His passion for the performing arts and storytelling fonds expression in his daring collections, including his latest poetic series for Spring/Summer 2024, inspired by the liberated body aesthetics of the 1930s era.
photographer GOSIA TURCZYŃSKA @gosia_turczynska
styling GAULTIER DESANDRE NAVARRE @gogo.desandre.navarre
models ZAKARIA GUOT, TANG CHEN from @select & ENOCH from @rockmen