In a shift from previous seasons’ jovial moods, for Autumn/Winter 2024 Edward Cuming delves into the tension between the brand’s unwavering optimism and the harsh realities of young studios, the industry, and beyond.

Muted and dark hues are paired with purposeful slashes, cuts, and fringing. A mirror to a merciless churn that never seems to stop. The collection peels away layer upon layer in a quest to unearth a raw truth. Embracing the imperfect, the subversion, and the juxtaposition, traditional silhouettes are disrupted with bursts of volume, colour and frivolous elements. Simultaneously, it all reinforces rigorous fabric experimentation as a core design principle. Ultimately, the brand’s unwavering optimism shines through in the new collection in its unapologetic approach to redefining what a modern wardrobe can and ought to be.

The collection introduces a range of new items, including voluminous oversized coats, an asymmetrically cropped bomber, graphic intarsia, and Aran knitwear, alongside precisely fitted women’s attire. Complementing the new styles, the design studio continues to advance signature collaging and cut-out techniques each season. The two-tone Doppelgänger dress, crafted through meticulous hands-on draping, captures fabric in motion and turns it into a static dress. Additionally, naturally occurring heavy fringing from washing the slinky lining material Edward Cuming is known for adorns a multitude of garments, featuring new shapes of cut-out collage details.

The brand also solidifies its trademark staples: CUMjeansoptions come in subtle indigo and mid- wash, with a new high-rise women’s style and a women’s denim jacket. Hand-crocheted pieces from local Spanish artisans join the collection again, rendered in a camisole and an otherworldly ruffled scarf, as does the Belmontebag in unique limited-edition tapestry fabrics, accompanied by a matching suit. Details such as sequin, silky sashes and ruffled brooches punctuate the new offering with a buoyant flair.

For this Autumn/Winter 2024 season, fabrics are an amalgam of new slinky viscose linings, cosy mohair, and alpaca blends, as well as protective wool knits, sturdy outerwear cotton and Japanese denim, elegant virgin wool and limited-edition deadstock upholstery fabrics.

Adding to the rotating collaborative roster around accessories, fellow Madrid-based Gafasgalore joins the brand universe with hand-sourced vintage sunglasses. Shoes continue to evolve season upon season with Adam Signature, a Reggio Emilia-based dancer, painter and evident shoemaker. Made by hand, the seasons’ new styles include a men’s boot with prominent topstitching and a utilitarian take on a women’s heeled toe court.

all photography by FERNANDO UCEDA