DRIES VAN NOTEN SPRING/SUMMER 2024
For spring / summer 2024 Dries Van Noten continues the study of new propositions of masculinity today. A mixture of strength and gentility.
It is a reflection on refinement, celebrating subtle details and nuance over bold gestures. The power and clarity of reduction. Stripping away extraneous overmatter. Emphasis on a rigorous new tailoring silhouette, narrow and elongated. Defined, high waists and flared trousers. Shoulders either pronounced and strong or softly flowing, sleeves long and lean. Trench coats are lengthened, their distinctive shape also forming panels over trousers. Shirts take the form of dresses. Bomber jackets are crafted with sculptural raglan sleeves and parkas exaggerated in scale.
A feeling of lightness and fluidity is explored through airy proportions and soft shapes. Sheer mousseline and gauzy technical fabrics float from the body. Shoes are open. An allusion to nudity in the scooping necklines and the knitwear revealing patches of bare skin.
Prints are reduced to quiet suggestions. A shadow motif created by layering print-on- print is deliberately uneven; non-obvious and unexpected.
A focus on fabrication. Rustic, natural materials vs preciousness; herringbone, slub cotton and shantung alongside light silk draping, delicate chain belts and jewellery with Tiger’s Eye stones. The sensory richness of clothes; the iridescent shimmer of metallic paillettes, furry textures on sandals and flowing safari shirts.
Intense depth of colour; rust, ecru, lilac, ink and olive tones. Parkas in apricot, citrine and mint. An ombre effect on shirting is printed rather than dip-dyed. Sophistication and subtlety in the execution of the palette.
Dries Van Noten menswear offers an exploration of discrete elegance.