Dries Van Noten’s Autumn/Winter 2024 collection pictures the modern woman. Multi-layered with different facets. Interesting combinations of stiff and soft fabrics with bold and pastel colors. The beautiful complexity keeps a sophisticated yet unpredictable flair.

She dares to cut her own fringe. Embraces the comfort of contradictions, her femininity at once tender and strong. Exudes an ineffable mystique: discreet yet audacious. Signals calm as well as boldness. Composes layers, seemingly spontaneous and deliberate. Alternates between precious and pragmatic; creased, cushiony and fluffy; painted and patterned; high shine and streamlined.
Her looks consist of shifting gestures – swaddling scarves, angular cuffs, stretchy skirts. Her silhouettes reconsider basic shapes: a reimagined kimono sleeve or else trousers with an emphatic slouch.
Her expression comes through color, washed tones giving way to striking shades of
pink and blue. Her artistic impulse surfaces, from color fields to sequin pointillism.
Every duality brings us deeper into her desires.

The looks are assembled with rather stiff yet soft layers. The Outerwear seems smoothly sculptured and well-tailored. The body is enhanced by mesh stretching over it combined with elongated pants, that are weather wide or narrow. Dries Van Noten combines cropped jackets with longer shirts and scarves that turn into a sleeve to give a dramatic flair.

The fabrics used by Dries Van Noten are as interesting combined as the layered pieces. Noble satin duchesse is casually combined with a rather sophisticated sweatshirt jersey. Dries Van Noten beautifully combined fabrics like denim with semi-sheer mesh and ultra-shaggy lurex, as well as cushiony Bermuda shorts and fluffy mohair skirts.

Dries Van Noten’s color palette reaches from watercolors to saturated shades: mint, blush, pale yellow and lilac and ecru to pink, vivid blue, copper, deep brown and black.

Besides the vivid colors, the collection includes printed sequin handmade motifs and all-over sequins in gradient sizes. Jeweled strands and broken brooches affixed to garments, embroideries mimicking wet paint, sublime clusters of chains, strass and stones add gradient shine. Multicolored embroideries create a dimensional tone in the collection.

Drawing the eye downward, boots, mules and T-bar pumps defined by a curvy, narrowed wedge, glove-like last, and squared toe in matte and lacquer or else textured lurex. The bags exude character, whether soft shapes with structured frames or fluffy clutches and draped purses in lacquered leather. Accessories like wraparound chains and multi-hued jewels assembling pearls, strass, beads and embroidery enhance the looks.

The looks chosen for the models are dominated by extreme fringes low on the face. Like a natural shield that enhances mystique. The mouth is emphasized through unexpected lip colors – Amethyst Shadow and Amber Jungle – that are at once earthy and deep.

Dries Van Noten’s presentation of this extravagant collection is accompanied by Sade’s Haunt Me (Soulwax Edit), stripped and remixed with birdsong.

runway & ambient images IMAXTREE
backstage images ADAM KATZ