ENGINEERED IN WOLLASTON — DR. MARTENS RECONNECTs WITH DAIKI SUZUKI’S ENGINEERED GARMENTS LABEL TO CRAFT TWO NEW SHOES IN THE ORIGINAL DM’SFACTORY

The Nepenthes New York label’s dedication to refining workwear and ‘over-engineering’ details echoes through the two 1461 shoes – handmade by DM’s cobblers in Northamptonshire and shot on their makers. The new collaboration drops this September.

Daiki Suzuki was a self-styled ‘vintage clothing archiver’ long before he became one of streetwear’s most renowned tastemakers. Before launching Engineered Garments, Nepenthes’ US outpost, in 2002, Suzuki would travel across America and the western world, seeking, sourcing, and stockpiling vintage pieces from untapped brands and second-hand stores. He even began drawing up a map for regional clothing specialties: moccasins, New England; suiting, Manhattan; work boots, Northamptonshire.


His passion for localized manufacturing traditions – crafts and techniques that had been passed down generations – naturally drew him to the British shoemakers and Dr. Martens. He even remembers encountering his first pair: a beaten-up pair of 1461 shoes with a distinct asymmetrical ghillie lacing system, buried deep in a vintage store in the early 90s. He bought them, and kept them, in his legendary clothing archive, connecting instantly with DM’s workwear heritage and timeless design language. The first step in a burgeoning partnership.

“IT’S THE PEOPLE WHO WORK AT AND WEAR DR. MARTENS THAT REALLY MADE MEWANT TO REWORK THE CLASSIC SHOE.”

-DAIKI SUZUKI, ENGINEERED GARMENTS

Sticking rigidly by the utilitarian principles that fuse the two brands, Dr. Martens fifth collaboration with Engineered Garments subtly nods back to that infamous first pair with an ‘overly engineered’ asymmetric lace system that stretches down one side of the shoe. They’re built from black Smooth leather or milkshake Hi Suede – two robust, versatile shades equally at home in a work or downtime uniform. Signature DM’s markings, yellow welt stitching, and twin scripted heel loops are all here alongside elevated details: a silver-foiled sock liner and a secondary pair of two-tone laces to enable customization.

Landing this September, the collection will be shot in the original DM’s factory on the people who made and handled it: DM’s factory workers and members of the Nepenthes London family. Two worlds coming together to celebrate craftsmanship and s homemaking heritage.

The new Dr. Martens x Engineered Garment collaboration lands on the 9th of September at drmartens.com and select partners.

ABOUT DR. M ARTENS

The first pair of Dr. Martens boots rolled off the production line on the 1st of April 1960. With its trademark yellow stitch, grooved sole, and heel-loop, it was a boot for workers, initially worn by postmen and policemen; comfortable, durable, and lightweight in comparison to its competitors at the time.

Throughout Dr. Martens’s history, the brand has been adopted and subverted by diverse individuals, musicians, youth cultures, and tribes. These are the people who stand out from the crowd and their journey of self-expression has always been accompanied by a pair of DM’s.

The simple silhouette allows people to customize each pair; whilst on a utilitarian level, their famous durability and comfort make them ideal footwear for the world of gigs and street fashion. On an emotional level, they are a flag of attitude and empowerment.

The Northamptonshire factory where it all began still exists to this day, in the village of Wollaston. A specific range of ‘Made In England’ products are manufactured here by a small, close-knit team of people schooled in traditional shoe-making and a process that hasn’t changed since their first pair six decades ago.

ABOUT ENGINEERED GARMENTS

Founded in 1999 by a vintage-clothing-hoarder known as Daiki Suzuki, Engineered Garments takes its name from a pattern maker’s comment that these clothes were more engineered than designed. Taking cues from his extensive archive of sportswear, work wear and highly-functional military garb, each piece from Engineered Garments has more details than you’d ever notice. The dress shirts have single needle stitching for a smoother shape, the t-shirts have cross collars to avoid stretching and the jackets have loads of pockets for whatever it is that people put in pockets. Detail is everything…