Diesel for every layer of life: Pre-Spring 25 goes from the most intimate second-skin underwear all the way through to subversions of tailoring. This is Diesel for all day, all night, in every situation, further expanding the brand vision of creative director Glenn Martens. With pre-collection, catwalk concepts become accessible pieces, a continuing act of true fashion democracy.

“This is a collection that blurs the lines: is tailoring smart or casual? Is a piece denim, or is it trompe l’oeil? And with our new underwear, is it an intimate piece, or is it ready-to-wear? Diesel defies all conventions, breaking from the norm to live on its own terms – this is the path to successful living,” says Diesel creative director Glenn Martens.

Wool tailoring is screen-coated on the front to create a double effect: matt wool on the back, shiny coating on the front. It’s on pieces like city coats, suit jackets and pants, with check cotton shirts also screen-coated on the front. Meanwhile a zip-fronted long-sleeve leather dress has a jersey back, worn with jersey leggings printed to look just like skinny jeans. Denim suit jackets are printed in places to look like pinstripes, furthering the subversion of tailoring. It’s part of Diesel’s take on the three-piece suit, matched with a zip-up denim vest and mini skirt, both with partial pin-stripe printing. Another three piece looks like denim but is actually jersey: a ruched sweatshirt, caused by an inside layer cut smaller than the outer, worn over a polo-shirt and matched with trackpants.

Diesel pushes fabric innovation to create the easiest pieces, like a fleece zip-up that looks like denim, perfect to be worn with the jersey leggings that look like skinny jeans. Meanwhile, boucle is actually denim, used for a city coat, sweater and baggy pants. Denim padded outerwear pieces are now water-repellent. Jacquards that look like denim often place whiskering in areas that would never normally get distressed, like a zip-up jacquard with a whiskered effect at the waist and above the chest. Ideas straight from the Diesel catwalk are everywhere, like belt-bags that become garments, such as crop-tops, bra tops and mini-skirts. Underwear is made overt when jersey dresses, vest tops, cardigans and skirts are trimmed and held by the stitch lines of bras, thongs or corsets. Meanwhile knits are trimmed with tufting in vivid colours, referencing the spiked hair of a punk.

Prints pop louder than ever, like one that’s a close up of a glaring spotlight, or a print of aluminium foil creased and crinkled to create a shattering effect. Floral prints on shirts and distressed skirts play with politeness, while specially drawn prints by Berlin tattoo artist Sagflap present a twisted fantasy. Utilitarian pieces for city living include zip-up leather jackets with oversized bellow pockets, or faded denim knit zip-up cardigans, vests and dresses with denim utility pockets attached. But really, it’s underwear that’s the most utilitarian garment of them all. As well as the new Diesel underwear pieces, such as the leggings, there’s also denim-effect underwear in the pre-collection, such as vests, miniskirts, long-sleeve tops and dresses.

Camo boots and pumps are printed on transparent mesh, with a metal stiletto heel and a metal D across the back of the heel; the same styles also in black patent. Denim loafers are distressed to create a trim, while baseball sneakers look already well aged. The Play bag comes in new colours, each one actually a photo print: blue sky, red roses, pink sweets, green grass. Meanwhile, the new Scrunch-D bag, which debuted at the FW25 show, comes in shiny black patent. Charms of mini versions of Diesel bags are attached to other bags. The new jewels collection sets the vibe of the season reinterpreting the jewelry traditional both in the stainless steel line as well as in refined and precious sterling silver one, while on timeframes the latest released Wonder D bangle-watch for her now features a transparent shell in perfect Diesel pop colours.