Interview by Anano Shalamberidze

COS, abbreviated from "Collection of Style", is a contemporary clothing brand focusing on design and craftsmanship. With a brand ethos that centers on timeless, made-to-last pieces, COS has long been a go-to shopping destination for minimalists. The brand has now partnered with London-based artist Stephen Doherty for a summer capsule collection and luckily, Numéro had a chance to chat with Stephen about his creative process, his vision for textile design and his favorite pieces from the capsule.

Stephen, can we start with introducing you to our readers? How would you describe your art to someone who might not be familiar with your body of work?

The flower series has been my focus for a while now, it started when I was in Goa on a three month residency in 2018. It was just after monsoon season, everything was coming into bloom, it was so beautiful. I spent a lot of time in and around the shrines and the use of flowers in those spaces is something I kept coming back to. The repetition of all the flowers being laid on top of each other, each one with its own hope or prayer. That layering of intention made those spaces feel so charged. I decided to make that the focus of my work while I was there and have carried it on since. I also reference the Anemone a lot for its association with anticipation and hope.

Who were your early inspirations?

I always loved art and design when I was at school. My high school Art teacher was amazing, she was so enthusiastic and encouraging. I would sketch from Dali paintings into my sketchbook, make paintings, little sculptures and hats. I spent all of my time in the art room. I remember her showing me an Alexander McQueen collection with Philip Treacy’s hats and me realizing that people were paid to make beautiful things, that it could be your job. I was pretty much sold on having a job doing something creative from that point. 

Was a collaboration such as this one with COS always on your mind or did you consider it after an offer?

After studying fashion and then working as a designer for a few years I definitely still have the itch to work in this way. I love collaborating outside of my own work, being part of a conversation to build something new with people whose work I love, I find it exciting.

What was it like developing the capsule collection with COS?

It’s been really fun, they’ve been such a pleasure to work with. It started as a really open conversation as to how we could best work together. We exchanged some ideas and then the creative team proposed the initial line-up, which I loved. Then it was a case of making artwork that we felt was a good fit.

How involved were you in the design process of the garments?

I wasn’t too involved in the shapes of the garments themselves but being COS I knew that it would be a take on their classic pieces. I know there have been a few tweaks to compliment the feeling of the collection, to give it lightness, and movement. 

How would you say it’s different developing prints for clothing versus painting a canvas?

I feel like there’s maybe a little more consideration when making garments. You’re dressing a figure which is viewable from all angles but also dressing the movement of that figure and considering the weights and movement of the fabric. There are more elements to play with and balance. 

What is your favourite piece from the collection?

I’m torn between the trouser set and the black dress, I love them both! I also love the boldness of the orange scarf.