CHOCHENG, WHERE SUSTAINABILITY MEETS TRADITIONAL TAILORING
CHOCHENG is a womenswear designer label launched by designer Cho Cho Cheng. Cheng studied fashion and costume design at the Parsons School of Design and took an apprenticeship in Savile Row, London, where he studied traditional British tailoring.
For the Autumn/Winter 23 collection presented at New York Fashion Week, CHOCHENG draws inspiration from the iconic Italian masterpiece 8 ½ by iconic filmmaker Federico Fellini. Drawing the retro glamor and humor from international cinema, CHOCHENG approaches this season with a whimsical note.
Part retrospection, part anticipation, CHOCHENG introduces new designs along with updating and repurposing signature concepts from the beginning of the brand. Natural and sustainable cotton velvet, boucle, crepe and Swarovski crystal beadings remained the brand staples, while the new invention of vegan cupro charmeuse is replacing silk fabrics. Feminine round shoulder cap sleeves, dramatic hand ruched tulle, seductive cut outs, and delicately handsewn petals, cords and braids adorn this season’s collection. A romantic Marie Laurencin color palette of plum, blush and neutrals is introduced, adding a note of fantasy to the classic combination of black and white.
A Numéro Netherlands Q/A session with designer Cho Cho Cheng
What are the most valuable lessons you’ve learned across your career as a fashion designer?
Most importantly, I have learned to trust my conscience.
Where do you source your natural materials from?
I am dedicated to environmentally conscious manufacturing. Therefore, the only materials that I use mainly come from heritage mills all over the UK. I appreciate the fact that they are at once sustainable and historical.
In what ways do you incorporate these and other environmentally friendly methods in the manufacturing process?
Sustainability is at the heart of my brand. I use only natural material sourced locally and also adopted a zero waste policy where we use leftover fabric scraps to make handcrafted buttons, paddings and trimmings. Apart from that, old samples are recycled and repurposed while we send leftover cotton fabric to a recycling company in order to be made into paper stationery. Hence, my brand is at once environmentally conscious and supportive to traditional craftsmanship.
How would you describe the identity of the aesthetics and designs of your latest collection?
Glamorous, humorous and courageous.
What did your creative process look like and how was it working for you on this collection?
First I chose the fabric and then draped it to develop the garments. After that, I proceeded to style and edit these garments according to my theme and inspiration for the collection.
How do you want people to feel when they’re wearing your latest collection?
At the forefront, I would like people to feel comfortable and confident.
casting CHAD THOMPSON at COMMUNA-K INC.
makeup CAMPBELL RITCHIE at ART DEPARTMENT NEW YORK
hair MATTHEW CURTIS for HAIR BY SAM MCKNIGHT
production JUDITH RICE & ASSOCIATES
interview THORE DAMWERTH & PATRICK BOYLE