BURBERRY PRESENTS SPRING 2024 BY DANIEL LEE
Daniel Lee’s expression of Burberry evolves. The focus remains on British wardrobe archetypes, cut closer to the body, on British motifs and the British outdoors. Check – new and reimagined from the archive – is celebrated. Happy scarves, made in Scotland in Burberry Check cashmere, are fringed along each vertical side.
Key pieces include trench coats, car coats, duffle coats, blanket capes, quilts, parkas, field, aviator and bomber jackets. These are seen alongside kilts, tracksuits and rugby jerseys. Puffer coats are leather with Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) details.Refinement is grounded by function and finishes. Hoods are attached to silk chiffon dresses, silk scarves are looped through viscose rib-knits and epaulettes through shoulders. Zips and press studs allow the wearer to adjust clothes for versatility of use and fit.
Knight blue accents are bright: on the piping of dandelion-print silk pyjamas, the fastenings of quilted jackets and taping seams of car coats. Colours include sherbet, cameo, ivy, rhubarb, khaki, trench, knight blue, black and white. Prints are joyful. Tailoring and tailoring fabrics are inspired by Savile Row. Jackets have peak lapels and an hourglass waist. Prince of Wales and houndstooth check jacquards are reconsidered, recoloured, magnified and warped.
Zip pockets and openings found on coats, jackets and trousers reference a 1920s women’s archive ski suit. The placement of zips on the thighs of trousers alludes to vintage flying suits. Knitwear follows traditional patterns. Prince of Wales check and painterly argyle intarsia knits, cricket sweaters and sweater dresses are rooted in the familiar – refreshed. Denim jeans and jackets have flocked rose turn-ups and cuffs.The EKD is woven into the backs of garments, at the inside of hems or with the outline punched into rubber mules – half on one, half on the other. Bags and shoe designs develop: check wool trims and overlays appear on both.
The Knight bag family, distinguished by a bridled horse clip, expands to various sizes, a puffy leather design and a new bucket bag in shearling. The Shield Sling bag is now in crinkled leather or jacquard- woven with Prince of Wales check. A Shield tote in quilted leather with EKD-embossed details is introduced. Also new is the Muff bag in leather, and the Peg bag knitted in Burberry Check with a clothes-peg closure.
Equestrian Stirrup tall boots have a higher heel, while Stride boots fit close to the leg in stretch patent leather. Shiny leather Baby pumps have rounded toes, and Peep sandals and boots have zip details. Sweep pumps have a knit trim. Ruff sandals have metallic-knit uppers. Trainers and Creeper shoes have check-knit uppers, Bubble sneakers are fully moulded in rubber, and Barbed loafers have barbed wire hardware. Marsh boots in transparent rubber have visible check linings.