BURBERRY INTRODUCES ITS SPRING/ SUMMER 2023 PRE-COLLECTION BY RICCARDO TISCI
¨The Friends and Family series is so important to me because it is a celebration of togetherness, creativity and collaboration. It is an opportunity for someone special to me, and who inspires me endlessly, to bring their own unique style and perspective to the world of Burberry. For the second edition of the series, I’m so happy to announce Jared Buckhiester as the Spring/Summer 2023 Pre-Collection Friends and Family collaborator.
Jared and I have been close friends for a long time and I have always admired him, both for his dedication to his work and the passion that comes with that, as well as his commitment to living fiercely by his identity and being true to himself. I am so excited to be able to share the result of our creative worlds coming together with the release of this unique and very special collection.¨ Riccardo Tisci (Burberry Chief Creative Officer)
The collection celebrates the brand’s house code of duality – a juxtaposition of regality and refined utility, a modern twist on classic British femininity and functionality. This is seen on colourful workwear-inspired jackets and chain motifs on flowing silk shirts, English-fit suits and sporty co-ordinated styles. Iconic Burberry outerwear such as duffle coats and car coats are animated with stripes, pleated details and the Equestrian Knight Design and paired with tactile pieces such as leather ties, biker trousers and padded jackets.
The Spring/Summer 2023 Pre-Collection is the second in the creative series Friends and Family, in which Riccardo Tisci partners with inspiring creatives from unexpected backgrounds. For this collection, Riccardo partnered with Jared Buckhiester who featured in the Burberry Autumn/Winter 2022 runway show. Jared interpreted the themes of the collection by styling the collection and photographing the lookbook – cementing his personal creative identity.
¨The word I would use to describe my experience is simply fun. Having such a strong team interested in and responding to the ideas I’m being asked to contribute feels great and leaves a lot of room for creativity. From the get-go, it’s been an ideal collaboration and I’ve been fully embraced as a contributor. Riccardo and I have a crossover in our love of workwear aesthetics. So much of my work as an artist draws upon the masculine archetype that inhabits these clothes. Immediately, I was interested in playing within this space, and it’s been a fruitful place to create from.
If anyone knows Riccardo, they know him to be generous and loyal, and for this reason he is surrounded by people who have something to bring creatively. As well, he is such a sharp observer, he misses nothing. Combine this observational nature with the generosity and you get someone who can recognise the ideas that will best represent you as a collaborator. Honestly, it’s been a dream to work with him. I see Burberry as a signifier of British culture, it’s woven into my conception of what it is to be British, similar to punk or rave culture. Add to that Riccardo – and my relationship to him as a friend – and suddenly Burberry becomes more personal and tactile. It maintains its British core, but the rave is right alongside.¨ Jared Buckhiester (Artist)
Utilitarian uniforms reimagined. A hooded duffle coat in birch brown check wool, rebelliously worn with a black leather shirt, tie and biker trousers. Orange stripes accent a bright red wool and leather-trimmed jacket and dusty orange cotton-canvas coat, styled with blue denim panelled jeans and a strapless playsuit. The iconic car coat in technical fabrications with feminine pleats at the back and bespoke cotton gabardine jacquard-woven with the Equestrian Knight Design, layered under a black leather padded jacket and bomber jacket in light air force green nylon. A trench reconstructed in leather, as a halterneck bodysuit and skirt. An ode to the countryside – a diamond-quilted waxed cotton jacket and matching skirt cut to a fitted silhouette and worn under a shearling oversized coat.
Modern takes on classic British femininity. A flowing cashmere wraparound cape in new Pixel Check, trimmed with leather. A parchment grey wool cardigan with floral embroidery and appliquéd crystals worn with a chain- print silk tie-neck shirt and dark grey mélange wool shorts with pleated skirt panels. A black wool-cashmere cardigan intarsia-knitted with farmyard animals. Sportswear reinterpreted in a bright blue bomber jacket and floor-length skirt in a heavyweight technical knit with chain-print sides.
In tailoring, bold silhouettes mix traditional and subversive elements. Black wool tailored jackets structurally cinched at the waist or presented in boxy proportions appliquéd with colourful stripes – juxtaposed with equestrian-inspired leather chaps and floor-grazing skirts. A dark grey melange wool tailored overcoat and wide-leg trousers. For evening, a birch brown check silk dress with a plunging neckline and pleated ruffles, as well as a daring fringed chiffon dress trimmed with chain at the neckline.
The mini chain TB bag in black, embellished with gleaming crystals and the Thomas Burberry Monogram clasp – the interlocking initials pay homage to the Burberry founder. Exploring the Catherine bag and signature shapes, as well as a new eyewear pouch with strap – crafted from bright orange and tan leather, brushed brown logo-embossed leather, black shiny leather, smooth and crocodile-effect embossed leathers.
The Lola bag finds fresh expression in green velvet, decorated with the Equestrian Knight Design, black leather with polished studs and mini shapes in brushed brown leather and white smooth leather – inspired by the Burberry Check – quilted and reworked in a larger scale. Introducing the Sound bag – a barrel shape reminiscent of cylindrical speakers – in bright red embossed leather inspired by the House Check. A classic leather crossbody bag panelled with a crystal-embellished chain pattern, as well as a tactile take on the Thomas Burberry Monogram in polished leather.
The functionality of workwear playfully recontextualised. The car coat in dark birch brown cotton canvas, worn under a shearling oversized coat. A utility-style coat in black cotton gabardine, with exaggerated pockets and appliquéd stripes. An orange field jacket in cotton canvas, with a corduroy collar and contrast topstitching. A waxed cotton jacket with tonal panels, styled with skirts and layered over a honey bespoke gabardine car coat and rib-knit sweater in a wool-cashmere blend. A leather apron under a logo-quilted puffer jacket.
House codes amplified. Dark birch brown Burberry check explored in a wool down-filled jacket and wool and leather bomber jacket with badge appliqués, styled with a leather biker jacket and trousers. The Equestrian Knight Design intarsia-knitted on a cashmere-wool twinset and 3D-printed on a tailored jacket. A new chain motif printed on a loop-back cotton hoodie and as an all-over pattern embellished with crystals on a cotton-wool track jacket and jogging pants. Timeless tailoring refreshed with signature and seasonal graphics. A black grain de poudre wool tuxedo with satin lapels worn with a bib-front cotton shirt crystal-embellished with oak leaf motifs. A white English-fit suit in technical silk cady, and silk-twill shirt printed with the seasonal chain motif in a watercolour effect.
SHOES AND ACCESSORIES
Women’s ankle boots in leather, reworked with accents of dark birch brown Burberry Check wool and black velvet. Lace-up boots in bitter chocolate leather, with stiletto heel and lace guard detail. Point-toe pumps in contrast topstitched denim and crystal-embellished slingback with leather -trimmed chain strap – a link to the Lola bag. Stiletto-heel sandals with chunky chain ankle strap.
Men’s workwear and hiking-inspired boots with lace guard detail. Bright red and black leather biker boots with buckled straps in mid-calf or knee-high lengths. New slip-on boots with rubber sole and polished stud detail. Derby shoes with brogue detailing, set on a chunky tread sole with archive beige Burberry Check and grosgrain detail. The Arthur sneaker cloaked in a textural technical zipped upper, the distinctive sole and tread also featuring on latticed leather sandals.
Wraparound rectangular sunglasses feature cut- out temples in black or tortoiseshell-effect frames with orange lenses. Vintage-inspired square opticals in metal with acetate trims. Bow-shaped earrings in velvet and grosgrain, adorned with pearl and chain-link drop pendants. Hand-inlaid crystals on delicate TB Monogram earrings and a deer-shaped ring. Exaggerated signet rings detailed with the Equestrian Knight Design. Equestrian-inspired and pillbox-shaped caps elevated in wool and smooth leather. Leather belts decorated with oak leaf crest-embossed buckles. Bright orange sketch-print leather gloves and tan styles inspired by falconry gloves.
Core colours of soft fawn, dark birch brown, dark grey mélange and black are energised with primary pops of bright orange, bright red and true cobalt blue. Muted accents of light air force green and earthy shades of bitter chocolate and tan.
KEY PATTERNS AND PRINTS
The renaissance of the Equestrian Knight Design in print, jacquard and intarsia. House Check explored in dark birch brown and new Pixel Check. A new chain print as an accent and all-over pattern in watercolour-effect designs. Delicate floral motifs appliquéd and embellished with colourful crystals and playful intarsia-knitted farmyard animals. Bands of needle punch and appliquéd stripes as well as geometric colour blocks.
Photography JARED BUCKIESTER
Styling JARED BUCHIESTER
Make-up ANNE SOPHIE COSTA
Hair STOICHI INAGAKI
DAVID VAN ESS