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02 October

Acne Studios Women’s Spring/Summer 2021

 

“I am excited by transitional moments, in-between times that are alive with possibility. This collection is about the elevation of an elemental life, about positivity, optimism and light,” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.

 

A collection about liberation, transformation and personal rebirth. Gatherings for a spiritual moonrise, the energy of twilight, the darkness before the dawn and the impossible light of a full moon rising.

 

It’s about the blurring of time, the unceasing cycle of day turning to night, and vice versa; the experimentation it inspires, with clashes and contrasts, and pieces that have both a versatile presence and ease. Materials are a particular focus, with fabrics that interact and change with the light; cracked leather, pearlized cotton, metallic thread organza, iridescent paper. What may appear matt when the sun has set takes a luminescent shine after the moon rises.

 

Acne Studios has collaborated with the LA artist Ben Quinn, whose work is rooted in his experiences with the supernatural. His painting of a pulsating star is printed on an oversized metallic thread organza tunic, a washed linen top and wrap skirt, and tops in cotton voile or embroidered paillette top. Quinn’s image is also turned into a patchwork for sheer dresses and skirts.

 

Fabrics of di erent weights, weaves and textures are worn together to evoke a poetic silhouette. Crochet knits are like shing nets for bandeau tops, knickers or skirts, worn as layering pieces.Often, it’s under a translucent layer, while other times the crochet gives contrast, like under a raw-cut leather sleeveless dress.

 

Slouchy tailored jackets are as soft as can be, with no internal construction, even made from suit lining. Raw cut leather and suede provide moments of structure.

 

Luminescence is everywhere. A dip-dyed trench is in pearlescent organza, cut wide and loose. Cracked leather raw cut apron tops throw back the light, while a metallic shift dress is in crinklediridescent paper. Metallic cu s and earrings are re ective and delicate, as if hand-stamped, decoratedwith shells and stones. Transparent framed glasses let the light pass through them and are oversized enough to take in the whole of the moon.

 

Leather and suede bags have a weight to them with extreme oversized straps, mimicked in scale bythe garment dyed du el bags which can transition easily from day to evening to day. Flip ops havestraps of tightly braided leather, contrasting with kitten heels in raw cut fringed hemp. Spiked heels have their own attitude.

 

The collection represents a place that obeys its own logic and is centred around free gathering and the transition of time.

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