Voluminous yet shaped silhouettes, soft and worn fabrics, contrasting moments of sweetness and elegant refinement; this collection is a visual evolution moving from a dreamscape into an awakened reality.

“I was thinking about what happens when we emerge from isolation, the same but also somehow different. This collection is a dreamscape that begins with soft pastel colours, before awakening into monochromatic clarity, which is an ode to the white or black clothes worn for rituals in our life cycle, like weddings and funerals.” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.

Oversized wrap coats in floral printed wool are like dressing gowns seen out of the house, the oversized buckle heightening the volume play. Knits have the effect of a long-loved teddy bear, the hems left ragged and cardigan buttonings purposefully off-kilter. Pyjamas have been hand- bleached and overdyed, appearing well-worn. Leather trenches and jackets have brushed seams, creating a denim-like aesthetic; an ode to the brand’s roots. Knits, robes and dresses are key, with a focus on wrapping, draping and ruching. Colours travel from floral pastels and pale shades through neutrals, before arriving at monochromatic blacks and whites.

Draping is a reoccurring design feature. A long-sleeved linen dress has panels of rib jersey running down both sides, from cuff to hem. Some garments are voluminous with sudden cinching at the waist. Meanwhile, another linen dress hugs the body more tightly with fabric gaps to reveal the undergarment. The body is mostly covered, but there are moments of emergence, which is evidence of the experimental draping throughout the collection. Oversized and open- structure cable knits show the skin beneath, in either tops or skirts, followed by monochromatic looks which mirror each other: a long-sleeve white dress in a fine and supple leather, buttoned from rollneck to hem with open extended cuffs; a black sleeveless gown in viscose with a hidden internal construction. Silk jackets in black or white are lightly padded and effortlessly oversized.

Ceramic animals by artist, Apollinaria Broche are carried like bags, as if an imaginary friend from childhood. Miniature versions appear attached to chokers or earrings. Shearling hats cocoon the head, while chunky handknitted mittens add to the homespun feeling. Collapsible suede bags are in geometric shapes, such as boxes and flat circles. There’s also a structured handbag which is distorted into a new warped shape. Clog boots are cut from cowhide, while leather boots have seams on the outside, both thigh-high and ankle. Leather pumps have a high stiletto heel, while strappy sandals are worn over thick socks for full comfort.

The Women’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection will be available in all Acne Studios stores and on acnestudios.com.