“PINK NOISE”, inspired by Britain’s iconic sonic culture, particularly the practice of illicit radio broadcasting. With this Spring-Summer 2025 collection, A-COLD-WALL* eases in a new phase of the company.

Britain’s subcultures have always been the source of inspiration for fashion. The ambition, rebellious nature and values of those subcultures just seem to have something honorable about them. A-COLD-WALL* did their research on the spatial and subcultural dimensions of the phenomenon – and now, the collection “Pink Noise” discusses ideas of ephemerality and functionality, anonymity and audacity. 

Some pieces of the collection show radicalisation of proportion, through cinching and ruching. Others have more classical silhouettes, continuing the exploration of the utilitarian by A-COLD-WALL*. Angular seams have been inserted, a faint echo of antennas, anonymous in their ubiquity. Perforation and citronelle yellow are incorporated into the A-COLD-WALL* vocabulary, while weathering, a long-utilised technique, is applied to reconstructed baseball caps, distressed to breaking point. 

The collection is entirely enacted by a studio team, in collaboration with other creative protagonists and individuals from the extended A-COLD-WALL* network. A runway film directed by Rory Wood and a lookbook shot by Luca Grottoli features many of these, including musicians Goldie, Jason Williamson and Jawnino, filmmaker Seb Tabe, Don Letts, and models like Aweng Chuol, Laura Rylands, Danni Harris and Manyuon Deng. All were shot in Deptford Storehouse, a vast former newspaper depot in south London, with casting by Najia Li Saad and styling by Anna Pesonen. 

For the presentation of the collection at Maiocchi 10 in Milan, A-COLD-WALL* chose an installation. The exhibit of “Pink Noise” is envisioned by artist Ken-Tonio Yamamoto. Reimagining an immersive ceremonial space, featuring subtly moving portraits of the individuals above, with voice notes from members of the A-COLD-WALL* network and their reflections on sound in the city. Both installation and film are scored by musician Rainy Miller. 

Included in the spring-summer 2025 collection is a collaborative concept capsule with Japanese biotech venture company Spiber. This is realized through outerwear, a cargo pant, a hooded dress, and a bag incorporating Brewed ProteinTM: Spiber’s patented material platform, utilizing microbial fermentation technology to generate lab-grown fibers. In working with the protein material innovator, A-COLD-WALL* is continuing its program of partnerships with those operating at the industrial avant-garde. 

Other concept pieces also feature experiments with fabric, all produced by specialist Italian mills. An M65 field jacket, referenced previously by A-COLD-WALL*, is oversized, in a ripstop treated with aluminium from Florence’s Lamintess. A gilet is formed from crinkled memory fabric produced by Dinamo in Prato. A jacket and pair of trousers are constructed from panels of Italian calf leather, softly locking in the body for its protection. An ankle-length poncho in translucent coated- popeline made by Majocchi in Tavernerio, Como: a full-body gauze that protects the wearer from the rain and the view of others, made with the same textile manufacturer that helped the artist Christo to wrap his buildings. Each piece is an idea in material form, and an extension of an item within the season’s ready-to-wear mainline. 

“Pink Noise” is a collection about transmission and reception. It is a testament to the power of subcultural infrastructure, and the possibilities of networked creative production.